Australia and South Africa are both at 220V so not really an issue :-)

JohnB

On Fri, Sep 26, 2014 at 1:03 PM, Adam Goldberg <[email protected]> wrote:

>  2000W at 120V is 16.6A.   Careful you don’t put an upgraded machine on a
> 15A circuit.
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] *On
> Behalf Of *eleventysix
> *Sent:* Friday, September 26, 2014 6:55 AM
> *To:* [email protected]
> *Subject:* Re: Advice on Brewtus Mods
>
>
>
> Thanks for the reply John. I agree about the element power, it seems
> strange that other 230/240V countries ship with the low 1300W element of
> the American model. However, I've noted even on some Australian forums
> people have mentioned the worse steaming performance of the Brewtus/Minore
> compared to other dual boilers (R58/Alex Duetto/GS3). However at the time I
> purchased my Brewtus all other dual boiler machines were an extra AUD$1000,
> which I can't justify to myself. I can put up with a vibratory pump and
> more functional aesthetic for those savings.
>
>
>
> The joystick upgrade would be really nice, how easy was it to to change
> over the valves?
>
>
>
> At the moment I've got my steam boiler sitting around 1.3 bar and get
> maybe 1 degree overshoot when pulling a lot of water through the group.
> This is most noticeable if the temperature has just drifted under the set
> point and so the PID pulses the heater at the same time as running the
> pump. I noted the new Ambient&spresso Vesuvius has the option to bypass the
> steam boiler heat exchanger allowing much higher steam boiler pressure
> (1.5-1.6 bar). This seemed like a mechanically simple modification
> providing I could get everything to fit. Probably would be worth doing at
> the same time I did a rotary pump conversion.
>
>
>
> Group head lighting would be nice, but I think it would be quite difficult
> to fit in very nicely with the e61 group. The best place would probably be
> just under the top attach point of the group.
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Friday, September 26, 2014 3:53:44 PM UTC+10, sc00bs wrote:
>
>  I upgraded my 220V steam boiler from 1200W to 2000W after seeing that
> the Australian versions come with the 2000W element as standard. Beats me
> why they even come with a 1200w element unless they are trying to make some
> maximum power restriction with the smaller element. Is a different machine
> and a lot more temperature stable when you need to pull several shots in a
> row as the steam boiler recovery is much faster giving it more time on the
> brew group boiler.
>
>
>
> Other upgrades I have done are to change the steam control from a tap to
> joystick, much prefer the joystick control and always found the tap a pain
> as it was always leaking, Joystick is a definite improvement imo.
>
>
>
> Changed the steam tip to a .8mm 5-hole tip, could only do this after the
> element upgrade but can now be driven without any problems.
>
>
>
> Regarding the heat exchange, not sure that a bypass is required, I run my
> boiler at 1.4 bar without any overheating issues. I am however in
> Johannesburg, South Africa so at reasonably high altitude (1750mtr/s above
> sea level) so steam boiler will be at lower temp than when at sea level.
> Have you tried running it at higher pressure to see what happends?
>
>
>
> Enjoy the upgrades, I wouldn't mind putting some lighting around the group
> head at some stage, still looking for a neat way to do it.
>
>
>
> JohnB
>
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Sep 26, 2014 at 3:12 AM, eleventysix <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>  Hi all,
>
>
>
> Just found this group after having my Australian spec Brewtus IV (Vibe
> pump) for about a year now. I've had some ideas for mods that haven't been
> discussed before, which might be for a good reason! I'm a bit perplexed
> that the general consensus is the steam production is quite poor compared
> to other dual boiler machines. Especially since the Australian spec
> Brewtus/Minore has 2000W heating elements compared to around 1300/1400 on
> competing machines. Admittedly the steam boiler is on the smaller side at
> 1.5L but this should only impact initial steam pressure. I haven't had the
> opportunity to test this out in person however.
>
>
>
> Anyway that aside:
>
>    1. I've been thinking of installing a normally open relay on the steam
>    boiler auto fill probe, such that when the brew lever is engaged (micro
>    switch powers pump), the relay will energise and short the water level
>    sensor wires. This would ensure the steam boiler does not refill mid shot.
>    This seems like it would be quite a simple mod, but I can't seem to find
>    anyone who has done it before.
>    2. Another idea is to install additional plumbing and a solenoid valve
>    such that the steam boiler heat exchanger could be mechanically bypassed.
>    This would allow higher steam boiler pressures without overheating the brew
>    boiler. Or alternatively leave out the relay, and install a restrictor such
>    that water splits roughly equally between the heat exchanger and non-heat
>    exchanger paths to the brew boiler.
>
>
>
> I'm sure there are a number of things I am not considering, so any input
> would be much appreciated.
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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