Called WLL this morn' and talked through the data. Pid is certainly the easiest explanation so it is on its way: $65 including shipping. I am SUPER THANKFUL to WLL for the brewtus electrical's video. I knew 70% of it but still that video rocks! Funny thing: when I told my wife that the machine was dead her first response was: "well, we've had this one a while maybe just get a new machine?" That's not what I expected. What the heck? Is she fishing for new counter tops or something? A kitchen remodel?! So I guess that's a loyalty test if there ever was one, and my gut instinct is that I'd need to be crazy to get a more expensive and harder to maintain machine. Sure my friend's GS3 with strada mp brew lever makes better shots more consistently but he also takes it to LM every year for a ~$200 service. Eric
On Sunday, April 19, 2015 at 4:06:50 PM UTC-7, Bruce Keeler wrote: > I think I've had this problem. If I recall, I did have to replace the PID. > > Bruce > > On 4/19/15 3:01 PM, Eric Christoffersen wrote: > > Hi Guys, > > Been reading, investigating and still stumped, going to call WLL > tomorrow. > > Machine is a B2 with gicar PID and matching temp sensor (recieved from > WLL after original controller died years ago.) Its the PID with black > border and blue text. > > Sister-in-law over, come home and reservoir is out of water, machine off > (via reservoir weight switch.) > > Fill boiler and turn it on, get a weird flicker flashing on pid display, > barely legible "1.05". I leave it on, steam pressure is fine but no brew > temp. No leaks that I can see so probably emptied by drawing water from > spigot. > > Anyway I check out the machine with multimeter and not seeing or > measuring anything wrong except no power being sent to brew boiler relay > (and boiler). > > Steam boiler working, pstat powered, 0.5ohm resistance at overtemp > switches, etc. Brew boiler relay LED never blinks. > > I measured brew temp probe resistance at 60K Ohms at room temp. If I > disconnect the brew temp probe pid correctly shows code A1 (at least that > works). > > PID doesn't respond to key presses on startup - until the steam boiler > is up to temp. Once steam boiler is at pressure the pid display stops > blinking and I can enter the menu by cycling power, but still no worky. > > Measured power to the PID: I get 121V when steam boiler light is off but > that drops to 112V when steam boiler is heating. When PID gets 112V its > display flashes really quickly. > > At this point I'm expecting I'll need a new pid. Thinking problem with > its conversion from 110V AC to DC. Has anyone successfully brought a > PID back to life from this state? > > Thinking of taking it out, opening it up and looking for a problem, > maybe I'll try reheating any solder points. > > Thanks! > Eric > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Brewtus" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected] <javascript:>. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected] <javascript:> > . > Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
