Try holding a jumper wire between the two black wires on the PID that you
have circled.

You did say that the blue light on the PID is illuminated.  So if thiss
causes the green light on the PID to go on and the brew boiler starts to
heat then the PID has gone bad.

On Sun, Dec 30, 2018 at 12:07 PM David Maltais <[email protected]>
wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I read a lot of these problem on the group and tried a lot of things to
> find my problem without posting another one. Where I am at rigth now, I
> need to confirm my assumption with more knowledgeable guys here.
>
>
>    1. Steam boiler works
>    1. Red ligth cycle normaly.
>    2. Brew boiler heating element is ok
>       1. It heats if I "cheat" using steam boiler connectors or bypassing
>       PID.
>    3. No high limit problem,
>       1. I tried bypassing them with no results
>       2. I tested them too
>
>
> The problem seems to be the PID/SSR.
>
>
>    1. I have *no green ligth on the SSR* and there should be a solid
>    green ligth during brew boiler heating.
>    2. So current is not getting there or the SSR is not working?
>       1. I tried to bypass the PID to test the SSR.
>          1. result = green ligth and brew boiler is heating. So I think I
>          have quite isolated the problem.
>       3. PID seems to be the problem
>       1. I did a reset, not result.
>       2. It shows the room temperature
>       3. It gives the right temp too since it will rise and lower.
>       4. I have a solid blue dot on display
>
> I presume the PID is not sending current to the SSR
>
> I attached pictures.
>
> So, am I doing this right ? Is there a way to repair the PID ? With this
> test, can I be 100 % sure the problem is the PID ?
>
> Thanks a lot !
>
> David
>
>
>
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