Thank you Kevin, that makes a lot of sense and i think on B2 it is underneath the steam tank for some reason. Pretty sure on B4 it’s different and relocated under the water tank with the plastic casing and led pointing up. I wonder if this is something included with the PID kit or that somehow works with the existing SSR that is likely malfunctioning according to WLL support and will require replacement anyway.
Sent from my iPad > On Mar 13, 2022, at 6:22 PM, Kevin Maciunas <[email protected]> wrote: > >> On 14/3/22 06:47, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus wrote: >> Seems I need to test performance of static relay so diagnose machine not >> maintaining temperature. Can someone point me to where this part is in B2? >> The video on WLL shoes a part that doesn’t exist on my machine. Attached is >> B4 parts diagram from WLL. >> Thanks. > > Hi Andrey. Sorry I haven't been on-list for a while, had an accident and am > only just back now :( > > The "static relay" is actually a "Solid State Relay" or SSR. It is located > (on my Minore-II, a 240VAC version, so it *might* differ!) beneath the tank. > You have to remove the metal tank support thingy and you'll find it attached > to the bottom of the machine. The casing is a heat sink for it. If I built > it, there would be thermal grease between the case and the bottom of the SSR, > so don't remove it unless you need to! It should also have a clip-on > transparent plastic cover over it. > > My SSR has (as do most) a red LED at the low voltage DC control side. When > it is lit, the AC connection is made. BE CAREFUL. If you have a mains type > meter, you can check by connecting one meter probe to a mains neutral > connection, and the other to the switched side of the SSR. One of the two > terminals will always be live and the other should come on when the LED > lights. If there is no LED, you just need to check it comes on sometime! > > SSRs are standard electronic fare. If you need a new one, get one with a > suitable current rating and it'll be fine. The ONLY minor wriggle is some do > "zero cross switching" and some don't. Get a zero cross detect version. Do > NOT buy cheap ones from ebay though - they will be branded FOTEK (an > excellent manufacturer) but tend to be copies that make use of 8 amp triacs > rather than 10, 20 or 40 amp ones! > > Cheers > > /Kevin > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Brewtus" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > To view this discussion on the web visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/55c14618-f1fc-018d-4892-68e9596c9714%40gmail.com. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/89875A1B-7B7D-4440-BE28-46D7CF7DBBEA%40aol.com.
