The board pulls right out of the plastic enclosure. My cap wasn't bulging. Use your multimeter's capacitor test function. Its capacitance degrades over time. If its below spec replace it. Probably I will wait until symptoms before I replace it again. The symptom is an loud 60hz buzzing from machine - as if something was very wrong... :)
On Tuesday, November 15, 2022 at 2:52:52 AM UTC-8 Ken wrote: > Great write up. I am thinking I should check that cap on mine. Is it > difficult to separate the board from the plastic case of the giemme control > module? Much easier to replace a bulging cap now than to source that relay! > Mine is working perfectly but preventative is easier. > > On Thursday, November 3, 2022 at 5:01:36 PM UTC-6 [email protected] wrote: > >> Ok. Happy ending and some good stuff to share. >> >> The relay on the board is a finder 44.62S, which was discontinued more >> than 10 years ago. Its improved replacement is the Finder 40.62.7.024.4000. >> >> But that modern relay has also been discontinued for a while. They're >> available from places in UK and poland, to be shipped in 2023 and with >> exorbitant shipping prices. >> >> I found one "new old stock" from radwell. $5 for the relay, then $15 >> service fee and $10 shipping. >> >> Plan was to get my local phone repair store to replace the relay, but >> then what caused the relay to fail? >> >> Luckily I came across "Boyt Enterprises", I emailed Mr Boyt and he >> explained it was probably a bad capacitor that caused the relay to be nuked. >> >> I took it to Boyt who swapped the burned relay for my new one, he also >> replaced the capacitor with a new higher temp rated unit that should last >> 4x as long. >> >> FWIW my capacitor had ZERO capacitance. >> >> Understand... the control board receives AC signal. There's a diode that >> cuts off the bottom of that signal, then it goes to the capacitor that >> charges on positive signal, then discharges during the quiet time where the >> negative signal used to be, thus producing a sort of DC current. Well... >> when the capacitor has stopped working the downstream receives the signal >> from the diode, essentially a 60HZ ac signal. The relay gets this ac signal >> and fip-flops at 60 hz. The pump and steam fill solenoid received that 60 >> hz signal. Everyone is buzzing like crazy at 60 hz because they are getting >> turned on and off at 60 hz, instead of receiving a steady dc signal out of >> the capacitor. >> >> The first thing to fail in my case was the relay on the control board, >> can see how its burned and the contact is actually welded in place for >> steam fill. When the relay got welded the control board could no longer >> switch from steam fill to steam heat, so filled and then just sat there. >> Worse would be if relay welded itself the other way, then I'd have power to >> steam element but tank not filled... there might be protection but maybe >> not. >> >> So we're clear what is being discussed, here is my giemme control board. >> It lives just below my gicar pid. >> >> [image: giemme3.jpg] >> >> Here is the control board with my new relay and Boyt's capacitor >> installed. He tested the transformer (brick on the left) and it was fine. >> >> [image: giemme2.jpg] >> >> Top view: >> >> [image: giemme_outside.jpg] >> >> Again. If your machine is making a horrible buzzing sound. STOP. Don't >> use it. Get that capacitor replaced or you'll burn out your relay. >> Capacitors are still easily available and are like 25 cents, and capacitors >> wear out. You can test your capacitor if your DMM has a capacitor test >> feature (mine doesn't.). >> >> Boyt also said "Radwell is the worst place in the world to buy relays." >> He said he sources a better one that supports higher current and it costs >> him about $2 per. >> >> End of the day: >> >> Reassembled machine just now with repaired control board and... perfect. >> Steam fill is 'quiet' now and steam heat light came on as soon as fill >> completed. >> >> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/12fae078-4c61-4125-b236-43dc98c13a11n%40googlegroups.com.
