The first is check if overtemp switch is tripped on steam boiler. There’s a 
tiny red button on top that will pop up if overtemp occurs. Instead of 
first messing with button, With multimeter test that there’s continuity 
between the two sides of that switch.

If overtemp has fired it might have rotted with time, try pressing button 
down to achieve continuity. It should make a click but you might need to 
press pretty hard. It might also fire if you have a problem with steam 
fill, but then you’d see pump running continuously. They do rot so if 
button doesn’t achieve continuity you buy a new one.

Pstat: it’s a diaphragm that sends juice to steam element until pressure is 
high enough, then power goes to control board and brew element. When 
machine is off and cold and unplugged, open up and check that there’s 
continuity between pstat spade with wire to steam element and pstat spade 
that takes mains current. If there is continuity with no steam pressure 
then problem is something else, maybe steam heating element.

Pstats fail frequently. Every 2-3 years. I buy mater 1/4” Pstats in pairs 
for $25 each at sproparts in seattle. The ones I buy come adjusted to more 
pressure than I like so I dial them down.

Im guessing they fail because 15 amps is going through them. Maybe would be 
better to use pstat to control a relay to send juice to the element.



On Tuesday, March 12, 2024 at 4:12:51 PM UTC-7 Kevin Maciunas wrote:

> If there is no pressure or steam - it is probably the steam boiler 
> pressure sensor/switch.  These devices first power the steam boiler up, 
> when it gets to pressure then it cuts over to the brew boiler.  So it 
> sounds like it *must* be failed in a hard stuck over to the brew boiler 
> state.  Otherwise, if there is no steam, there is no espresso :)
>
> Easy fix, and easy to check - multimeter rated for mains voltage.  There 
> is a common wire and then two others - one to the brew boiler heater and 
> one to the steam.  THESE ARE ALL MAINS VOLTAGE.  It *will* kill you.  So 
> some care is needed :)  The alternative is to identify the brew and steam 
> boiler leads, then with the machine off AND UN-PLUGGED FROM THE WALL do a 
> continuity test between the common terminal and the steam boiler terminal.  
> Should be continuous.  If it's open circuit, it is not working.  The third 
> way is to simply swap the brew and steam leads, power up and watch the 
> pressure - if it rockets up past normal, kill power and open the steam wand 
> - the pressurestat is toast.
>
> Cheers
> /Kevin
>
> On 13/3/24 01:08, Joseph Helminiak wrote:
>
> Quick guess is the heating element 
>
> On Tue, Mar 12, 2024, 08:41 Justin G. Castillo <[email protected]> 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi:
>>
>> Have a dual boiler brewtus vibration pump model. Can make espresso but no 
>> pressure or steam. Looking for a steer for how to diagnose the problem.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Justin
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