>> Also it might be interesting where it happens.  Perhaps run it under a
>> debugger, give it a C-c during its long delay and then take a look at
>> the resulting backtrace to see where LilyPond is when the delay happens?
> 
> The main problem is: I need an idea of where to start looking for the
> font cache (or repeat the experiment on a clean machine). Unless I
> delete the cache, I'm unable to reproduce the problem.
> 
> If I just switch from 2.18 to 2.19 or if I delete 2.19 and install it
> again from scratch, I'm not able to reproduce the behaviour, so the
> font cache is obviously not in the folder with LilyPond.app.

I'm not familiar with OSX.
But if I understand correctly,

If you use the binary which is downloaded from LilyPond website,
fontconfig cache directory is `~/.lilypond-fonts.cache-2`.
So you can delete the cache by the following command.

$ rm -fr ~/.lilypond-fonts.cache-2

If you use other binaries (e.g. MacPorts),
fontconfig cache directory may be `~/.cache/fontconfig` and/or `~/.fontconfig`.

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