Robert, my shack ground rod is about 15 feet away from the house ground rod. Can I just run a heavy wire between the two as a good fix?
JP, K5JPP > On 05/23/2022 5:44 PM Robert Polinski via BVARC <bvarc@bvarc.org> wrote: > > > > My post only relates to if in fact you install a ground rod at your ham > station, that it needs and under the NEC is required to be bonded (connected) > to your house ground. Lets assume your house ground rod has a résistance of > 22 ohms. You pound a rod at your shack in the earth that has a resistance > 10 ohms Lightning strikes your power line behind your house. This high > voltage pulse is seeking the least resistance path to earth. The house ground > not the best, but to the lightning Gods you shack ground looks like a great > path, using the 3rd prong of your power supply or the neutral side of the > power cord, it seeks that ground, kind of frying any wiring or equipment in > its travels. If both ground rods are bonded together, using ohms law, the > total resistance is 6.88 ohms, much better ground, lightning has a low > resistance path to earth not thru your gear. Also from a safety aspect (why > the NEC requires bonding) if you loose a neutral connection at your power > drop to your meter, or in your breaker box and your house ground is missing > or poor, any grounded equipment in your house can have up to 120v on its > chassis. If you were touching equipment in your shack the was connected to > your shack ground and something grounded to your poor or non-existent house > ground. You will be a cooking hot dog. Robert > > > From: BVARC <bvarc-boun...@bvarc.org> On Behalf Of David Hold via BVARC > Sent: Monday, May 23, 2022 4:58 PM > To: BRAZOS VALLEY AMATEUR RADIO CLUB <bvarc@bvarc.org> > Cc: David Hold <davidh...@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: [BVARC] Ground rod > > > I will bet …. If you ohm out the negative post and chassis you will find > out they are the same. > > If so just take negative to ground rod or wire under a chassis screw to > ground. > > > On Mon, May 23, 2022 at 4:51 PM Mike Knedr via BVARC <bvarc@bvarc.org > mailto:bvarc@bvarc.org > wrote: > > > > > > Thank you for the information. > > > > I have a semlex sec-1235m power supply. > > > > It doesn't seem to have a chassis ground like the radio and the > > tuner does. Does it need to be grounded? > > > > > > On Mon, May 23, 2022, 1:53 PM Robert Polinski via BVARC > > <bvarc@bvarc.org mailto:bvarc@bvarc.org > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Do not preform any electrical work unless you are comfortable > > > as to what you are doing. Do not in any case ground the 3rd prong of an > > > electrical cord to a ground rod that is not bonded to your electrical > > > service. You could cause an electrical potential difference between > > > ground thru your equipment or thru YOU. Remember, an earth ground has > > > resistance. An electrical fault (short to chassis or ground) needs a low > > > resistance path back to its source, a metal conductor, the earth can be a > > > high resistance path. Low resistance will cause the protective device ( > > > Breaker or fuse) to open. Robert KD5YVQ > > > > > > > > > From: BVARC <bvarc-boun...@bvarc.org > > > mailto:bvarc-boun...@bvarc.org > On Behalf Of Joseph Benoit via BVARC > > > Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2022 8:59 AM > > > To: BRAZOS VALLEY AMATEUR RADIO CLUB <bvarc@bvarc.org > > > mailto:bvarc@bvarc.org > > > > Cc: Joseph Benoit <wa3...@gmail.com mailto:wa3...@gmail.com > > > > Subject: Re: [BVARC] Ground rod > > > > > > > > > Mike. Not a direct answer to your ground rod issue BUT upon > > > inspection, you will find the wire feeding the outlet boxes probably does > > > contain a ground wire, just that they didn't have three-prong outlets or > > > continue grounds properly > > > > > > Not sure you want to tackle this BUT it is easy just > > > time-consuming. After you've done a couple, maybe 15 minutes each. > > > > > > Experiment with one outlet to see if you are up to it. > > > > > > Look in your breaker panel and you will see a bunch of ground > > > wires connected to the ground buss so obviously they go SOMEWHERE (just > > > not terminated at the outlets and switches). > > > > > > Time to replace those old outlets and switches anyway. Don't > > > buy the cheapest outlets, stick to made in USA; Proven to be better > > > connections inside. > > > > > > You can fix the issue with the no-grounded outlets throughout > > > the house and make things much safer. Buy an outlet tester (a few bucks; > > > three LED's) if you don't have one. Get about 10 feet (jic) #14 solid > > > copper wire green or whatever color.; stripping entirely bare if not > > > green. Have a small assortment of appropriate wire nuts and electrical > > > tape. Amazing how many three pronged outlets don't have any wire to > > > ground screw although the bare ground wire is in there (sometimes just > > > balled-up. Good time to identify what breaker does what and to make sure > > > that breaker is OFF before you remove the outlet or light switch.. By > > > getting to each and every outlet and switch and make sure the ground > > > wires that are there are all connected to each other (may be multiple > > > cables in same box) connect them all together adding a pig tail if it > > > was cut too short. Add a short pigtail to the new 3-prong grounded > > > receptacle. Also look at any junction boxes hiding in the attic. Have to > > > be patient since, in an older house like ours, one room may feed another > > > room and the problem won't resolve until all the grounds are tied > > > together. One day project does the whole house. > > > > > > Good idea to take a wrap of tape around the receptacle or > > > switch for safety (for safety and to keep that ground wire from touching > > > where it shouldn't. > > > > > > > > > On Fri, May 20, 2022 at 8:19 PM Mike Knedr via BVARC > > > <bvarc@bvarc.org mailto:bvarc@bvarc.org > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > The house was built in the 60's. > > > > > > > > So there is no ground to the receptacles. > > > > > > > > I was planning on building an extension cord with a > > > > gfci and running the ground to the rod. > > > > > > > > I was thinking about flat braid from a ground buss bar > > > > to the rod for the radio, tuner, and power supply. > > > > > > > > > > > > Any thoughts? > > > > > > > > > > > > Mike KI5UBL 73 > > > > > > > > > > > > On Fri, May 20, 2022, 7:57 PM Michael Giannaccio via > > > > BVARC <bvarc@bvarc.org mailto:bvarc@bvarc.org > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Mike, > > > > > > > > > > When I put mine in I left about 8-12” out of the > > > > > ground. Plenty of room for multiple clamps and coax grounding blocks. > > > > > > > > > > If you’re not already aware make sure you bond > > > > > your station ground with your home’s electrical ground. I have some > > > > > wire that you’re welcome to for bonding if your run isn’t too long. > > > > > Let me know! > > > > > > > > > > 73, > > > > > > > > > > Mike Giannaccio > > > > > W5REZ > > > > > > > > > > > On May 20, 2022, at 6:53 PM, Mike Knedr via > > > > > BVARC <bvarc@bvarc.org mailto:bvarc@bvarc.org > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'm am installing an eight foot ground rod for > > > > > my new shack. > > > > > > My question is how much leave above ground to > > > > > attach the grounds. > > > > > > ________________________________________________ > > > > > > Brazos Valley Amateur Radio Club > > > > > > > > > > > > BVARC mailing list > > > > > > BVARC@bvarc.org mailto:BVARC@bvarc.org > > > > > > > > > > > http://mail.bvarc.org/mailman/listinfo/bvarc_bvarc.org > > > > > > Publicly available archives are available here: > > > > > https://www.mail-archive.com/bvarc@bvarc.org/ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________ > > > > > Brazos Valley Amateur Radio Club > > > > > > > > > > BVARC mailing list > > > > > BVARC@bvarc.org mailto:BVARC@bvarc.org > > > > > > > > > > http://mail.bvarc.org/mailman/listinfo/bvarc_bvarc.org > > > > > Publicly available archives are available here: > > > > > https://www.mail-archive.com/bvarc@bvarc.org/ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________ > > > > Brazos Valley Amateur Radio Club > > > > > > > > BVARC mailing list > > > > BVARC@bvarc.org mailto:BVARC@bvarc.org > > > > http://mail.bvarc.org/mailman/listinfo/bvarc_bvarc.org > > > > Publicly available archives are available here: > > > > https://www.mail-archive.com/bvarc@bvarc.org/ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________ > > > Brazos Valley Amateur Radio Club > > > > > > BVARC mailing list > > > BVARC@bvarc.org mailto:BVARC@bvarc.org > > > http://mail.bvarc.org/mailman/listinfo/bvarc_bvarc.org > > > Publicly available archives are available here: > > > https://www.mail-archive.com/bvarc@bvarc.org/ > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________ > > Brazos Valley Amateur Radio Club > > > > BVARC mailing list > > BVARC@bvarc.org mailto:BVARC@bvarc.org > > http://mail.bvarc.org/mailman/listinfo/bvarc_bvarc.org > > Publicly available archives are available here: > > https://www.mail-archive.com/bvarc@bvarc.org/ > > > > > > -- > > David Hold david.h...@gmail.com mailto:david.h...@gmail.com > > ________________________________________________ > Brazos Valley Amateur Radio Club > > BVARC mailing list > BVARC@bvarc.org > http://mail.bvarc.org/mailman/listinfo/bvarc_bvarc.org > Publicly available archives are available here: > https://www.mail-archive.com/bvarc@bvarc.org/ >
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