Get a schematic and a digital jolt meter to check the regulator outputs. I
have my 13 VDC supply system protected with large 16 V MOVs and reverse
biased silicon 10 A diodes. Fuses are way too slow to protect the equipment!
73, Gary K5AMH
On August 21, 2022 8:10:23 AM Glenn Anderson via BVARC <[email protected]> wrote:
I had the same problem with mine a while ago. The problem was with the
3.3-volr regulator module. It would get very hot and stop working after a
few minutes. There are two regulator modules on the input board. A 5-volt
and a 3.3-volt. They are the thick, black, edge-mounted things on the
board. If you have the same problem, one if them will be very hot after a
few minutes. I replaced mine with a different type and it solved the issue.
Calls to the factory were of little help.
Let me know if this is helpful.
Glenn
-------- Original message --------
From: Allen Brier via BVARC <[email protected]>
Date: 8/21/22 02:44 (GMT-06:00)
To: [email protected], 'BRAZOS VALLEY AMATEUR RADIO CLUB'
<[email protected]>, [email protected]
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: [BVARC] Elecraft P3 BLACK SCREEN but not DEAD
My P3 screen has gone black. When I plug in the power, I still hear some
very quiet relay click. Any quick ideas?
Full disclosure: I suffered a voltage spike some time ago which took out my
K3 some time ago (it is at Elecraft now); P3 still operated but the POWER
switch no longer worked, i.e. it was on all the time whenever power was
applied. (I am borrowing a K3 from a very, very good friend).
Does anyone work on P3’s besides Elecraft?
Allen R. Brier N5XZ
1515 Windloch Lane
Richmond, TX 77406
713-705-4801
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