I think the base or even a extension from the rail clamp to the
back framing may have to be reinforced as well. A diagonal piece of
slotted flat stock typical of most ULF cameras may be all the additional
support that needed.. I am sure the rear standard will handle the weight
vertically...... The back design is going to be a removable ground glass
where the film holder is then placed in its place...The two will never be on
the camera at the same time . The film holders I designed are "one film
only " . It is very similar to a clamping contact frame with a dark
slide and no glass... . This will cut down on the weight... .
The lens I am going to use is a late model coated 42 inch Schneider
APO red dot altar.. It is actually very light lets say compared to a 600
mm Ronar or Nikon... .....It is bulky but surprisingly light...
The front standards on the Toyo G models are pretty tough, but I am
worried about this one as it has the"Yaw" feature on the front and I have
never examined one... ...
I bought the camera so flimsy or not I guess there is no turning back
now... I will let you know...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick Jan Van Hove" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "E-mail discussion about homemade cameras" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2004 1:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] ULF Toyo conversion
> On 6/2/04 12:06 PM, "John Cremati" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi john,
>
> You might be on to something, and some people have used sinar 8x10 cameras
> to create 11x14 cameras. (www.glennview.com for one of them...) The
problem
> of going from 8x10 all the way to 20x24 is the sheer weight of a film
holder
> or a piece of groundglass of that size... You might end up with something
a
> little too flimsy for 20x24... And lenses that cover 20x24 tend to be big
> and heavy process lenses that might not be too kind to the front standard
of
> the toyo...
>
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