Re: [Cameramakers] rotating back

[Daniel Rhoades]

Bradley,   I found that (at least with the design I'm using) I have a 3/8" ledge on the rotating back.  This allows me to use a small threaded insert that is 7/32" wide (I bought small wooden knobs from my local wood crafters shop and removed the threaded inserts) that I can install into my camera frame at the top and bottom.  I'm going to turn some knobs to match the camera and use these as pinch screws through the frame.  When I want to turn the film holder frame from landscape to portrait I just loosen two thumb screws and turn it!  Since the threaded inserts are made of metal I never have to worry about the wood stripping out.  As soon as I get these plans drawn I put em' up on my web site (a day or two).  Will that help your problem?   Cheers! Dan Rhoades www.rhoadescameras.bizland.com   ----- Original Message ----- From: J. Wayde Allen Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 8:32 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] rotating back On Wed, 24 Jan 2001, Bradley Small wrote: > I am thinking about whether to do a remove-and-rotate vs actual > rotating back. I have been debating a design, but haven't had the > chance to research the materials yet. What I am thinking about is 2 > squares with an equal sized hole Iam guessing about 6" or so, that I > could epoxy a slice of pvc pipe into one and "somehow" clip it to the > other and use a bullet catch for a detent or possibly an index pin > instead. I've thought about doing something similar to this before.  Never tried it though.  You'll have to let us know how it works out for you. > The question I have is with size. At what point does a vignetting > problem occur? I think we've kind of already answered this one. - Wayde   ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) _______________________________________________ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com