Powder coating, was channel surfing the other night and caught the last of a show on car building (not all that different from what we do really except the car builders have a lot more sources for parts!) and the local mechanics were applying a powder coating to an intake manifold using a kit they got from a local auto supply store. Seems to me that in addition to powder finishes there have got to be a lot of engine part finishes that would be suitable. Just need to hit the counter guy when he's not busy. Mike >Hi everyone >Another thought is to have the parts powder coated a process that starts >with putting an electrical charge on the part that is to receive the finish >and then a resin powder , an opposite charge, is sprayed on the part. The >part is then put in an oven, at about 480 degrees, and baked until done. >This is not an exact proceedure but close and it provides a very hard >finish. The only kicker here is that you will have to find some one that is >equipped to do this kind of finish. This process is getting more popular >and >more common and shouldn't be too expensive. >Ron >www.ronbakerphotography.com > > > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Robert Mueller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2001 6:12 AM >Subject: [Cameramakers] Re: Blackening Brass Rails > > > > Perhaps some of you might be interested in experimenting with "misuse" >of > > some commonly available "finishes". It is hard to get two component > > paints or anything approaching other commercial paints in terms of > > durability. However, it is not too hard to use epoxy intended for >gluing > > or casting to provide a quite tough and adherent finish. One which >works > > may not be available to you under the same name but it is called "UHU >Plus" > > here. Today it is no longer so marked but older packages were >identified > > as being the same as Araldite. I assume it still is like Araldite and >it > > looks the same, but a change in composition is possible. You almost >surely > > can buy products using the same composition. I believe these can be > > thinned by using mineral spirits or "white spirit". Do the thinning >after > > mixing or else be careful about the ratio of thinner to epoxy components >so > > when you blend them the desired ratio of catalyst to resin is >maintained. > > This will make a clear finish which you can apply on top of chemically > > blacked brass to preserve it (or on bright brass!) > > > > An epoxy which you will not so easily buy is 2850FT from Emerson & >Cuming > > (I am sorry if I failed to get the spelling exactly correct.), but this > > costs us about $25.00 per kilogram and works as a fair, black paint. >Here > > you really should be careful with mixing and I strongly recommend >thinning > > only after mixing of the two components (and stir the resin before >adding > > catalyst.) This can certainly be thinned with acetone and I believe I >also > > had success with mineral spirits as well because I painted a large >object > > on which I would have been afraid to use acetone (acetone is pretty > > effective at destoyong many paints and a part of what I was coating was > > already painted.). The final mixture is not easy to apply but you can >get > > a dilution adequate to give decent results. I have never tried >spraying > > though it would be interesting, BUT USE A SPRAY BOOTH AND/OR OTHER LUNG > > PROTECTION IF YOU TRY IT.) > > > > After the solvent has evaporated you can bake either of these epoxies >which > > increases the bond strength to the brass or whatever, and helps the > > products to flow, giving a smoother result. > > > > Thr finishes will normally be glossy so they may not be ideal inside a > > camera but they should be excellent outside, for parts where the glossy, > > black look is desired. > > > > Both epoxies are tough, but the black 2850 FT contains fairly hard > > particles which ought to increase resistance to abrasion compared to >most > > unfilled finishes. > > > > Please experiment to find the best solvent (others will almost certainly > > also work) and amount of thinning. > > > > Good luck! > > > > Bob > > > > Dr. Robert Mueller > > Institut f�r Festk�rperforschung, FZ-Juelich > > D-52425 Juelich, Germany > > phone: + 49 2461 61 4550 FAX: + 49 2461 61 2610 > > email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > _______________________________________________ > > Cameramakers mailing list > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers > >_______________________________________________ >Cameramakers mailing list >[EMAIL PROTECTED] >http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com _______________________________________________ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers
