At 03:19 PM 9/21/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Thanks Bob - I think in my case a little knowledge is dangerous - I worry
>more about what I do NOT know than what I do...with the hope that eventually
>when I know it, I'll be the first to know.
>
>And AZ (panoramic), I would like info (off list or on, whatever's
>appropriate) on custom lamp...I had thought about a neon place locally that
>makes weird custom neons.
>
>Are you talking about something similar to the 'grid lamps' Arista/o makes?
>
>Murray
>
>
>
*********************************
Enlarger lamp instructions.

I have had several lamps made for my panoramic enlargers at neon shops. I
had a green/blue set made for variable contrast.  It was a pain in the butt
to use without a fancy computer timer so I didn't use it except for extreme
contrast situations where I only needed green or blue. 

I have a picture of a lamp for a 2 x 7-1/2 inch format here:
http://www.panoramacamera.us/enl_lamp1.jpg


Use 9mm dia. tubing with cold white phosphor. Make a full size pattern of
the lamp. Explain to the glass maker that they have to bend the tubing in a
flat zig zag that covers whatever format you need. The bends and
cathode/anode should be on the outside of the format size. The distance
between each length of tube is the same as the diameter. The cathode/anode
should bend upwards slightly from the face (or even more to save space). 

Beg for a used sign transformer that will give you enough zap. They know
what sizes. I have a 9000V, 30ma transformer on a lamp with four linear feet
of glass which is pretty hot. 

Use black foam-core (best) or 1/4 in. ply. for the housing and mount the
grounded transformer on the wall out of the way. Don't have it where it can
be accidently touched. Regular zip cord appliance wire is OK for connections
but keep it away from metal and you! Wood or foam-core is an OK insulator
but not UL approved. Get a set of bananna plugs at Radio Shack for the
connections. 

To protect the lamp mount it on a piece of 1/16 clear plex with light wire
thru pairs of holes in the plex or use clear tape or dabs of silicone calk.

I used 1/8 in. milk (skim!) white plex for a diffuser with the glass about a
half inch away. The sign co. may have this. An alternative is clear plex
with layers of frosted mylar or tracing paper. Use white cardboard on top
and sides of the lamp for a reflector. When the lamp is on the individual
runs should not show.  It may take some testing and adjusting. Even Aristo
and Ilford lamps can need some adjustment for uneven lighting. 

The shutter assembly is easier to make than explain. It's design is from an
ancient Omega 8 x 10 enlarger with old style fluorescent lamps that remained
on at all times (modern enlarger lamps use a pre-heated cathode system). It
can be made any number of ways.  Any small motor (like from a hair dryer)
will do. The shutter is mounted below the lens. How this is done will of
course depend on your enlarger.  Mount a pivoting shutter (paddle shaped mat
board) to the motor armature axle. I used a motor with a small cooling fan
and cut away all but one blade of the fan and tape the shutter to the
remaining blade. Use a thin rubber band and a bumper stop to cause the
baffle to return closed when the power is shut off. It takes a bit of
trial-and-error but once you see it working it is obvious what to do. Fasten
a piece of soft foam material to the bumper to absorb the momentum of the
returning shutter. The motor is connected to the enlarger lamp outlet of the
darkroom timer (remember this is a switch - half the circuit - and can
switch low voltage DC motors too). The lens shutter should swiftly rotate
completely open (about 100 degrees) when you punch the timer, and close
completely without bouncing. It is a contraption and may require a bit of
tape and bubblegum to work the way you like it. Once it is adjusted it will
be trouble free. 

AZ





Maker of Lookaround panoramic camera.
http://www.panoramacamera.us
         or
keyword.com lookaround


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