Lee, As stated , I will mail the exclusioins after this hurricane moves out of the area. I'm only a 100 miles inland on the line of landfall for Isidore near New Orleans. Storm preparations are taking up most of my time, today. The storm should be out of the area late tomorrow. I'll deal with it at that time.
Thank you, Don Schexnayder ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 1:07 PM Subject: Cameramakers digest, Vol 1 #491 - 6 msgs > Send Cameramakers mailing list submissions to > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > You can reach the person managing the list at > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Cameramakers digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Making a Panoramic Camera (Cedric Malitte) > 2. Re: Making a Panoramic Camera (Robert Mueller) > 3. Journey to the dark slide (John Cremati) > 4. Panor (david hajjab) > 5. fluorescent light source for poly papers (Ron Levandoski) > 6. Re: Panor (Alan Zinn) > > --__--__-- > > Message: 1 > From: Cedric Malitte <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 11:57:50 +0200 > Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Making a Panoramic Camera > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > David, > I want to make a round shot camera on 120 films. > I got a 28mm lens 42mm mount that should be ok to start with. > I already know how to make the film slide synchronised but I'm still > stuck on the choice of the motor. ( yes I want to use a motor ! ) > First I wanted to use a step motor + gears but I'm afraid about the > lines it could make on the film. > The second choice is a geared DC motor but how will I have an > accurate positioning ? I thought about coupling a 360° pot or using a > perforated disk with sensors kinda like in a mouse. > I'll drive the motor with a microprocessor, PIC or basic stamp. > I prefer the step motor because it's easier for me to drive it. > For now I'm just at the draft drawing point, trying to put all my > ideas on paper but I hope I'll soon have a prototype. > I already made a few draws. The first ones where what I wanted to > have but now I'm drawing something that looks like what I want but > easier to build with the tools I have and the materials I can afford. > I try to make it compact, easy to build, easy to use and not very > expensive. That a tricky exercise ! > I'll also try to include the possibility to switch from 28 mm to 50 > mm if I have time to look for a solution of easy switching gears. > > Regards, > Cedric. > > On Mon, 23 Sep 2002 19:39:21 -0700 (PDT), david hajjab wrote: > >Cedric, > >What type of panoramic camera do you want to make? > >David > > > >__________________________________________________ > >Do you Yahoo!? > >New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo! > >http://sbc.yahoo.com > >_______________________________________________ > >Cameramakers mailing list > >[EMAIL PROTECTED] > >http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers > > > -- > Cedric Malitte, [EMAIL PROTECTED] on 24/09/2002 > > > > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 2 > Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 23:25:47 +0200 > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > From: Robert Mueller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Making a Panoramic Camera > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > If you drive stepping motors with a pair of 90 degrees out of phase sine > waves (sine plus cosine) you will often find the motion to be much > smoother (I assume you would have 2 phase motors). I suggest selecting > motors with finer steps, 200 per revolution or more. I have seen 400 to > 500 step, two phase motors in applications like plotters but you will need > some luck or patience to find these; however, 200 ought to be good enough. > > Bob > > > > At 11:57 24.09.02 +0200, you wrote: > >David, > >I want to make a round shot camera on 120 films. > >I got a 28mm lens 42mm mount that should be ok to start with. > >I already know how to make the film slide synchronised but I'm still > >stuck on the choice of the motor. ( yes I want to use a motor ! ) > >First I wanted to use a step motor + gears but I'm afraid about the > >lines it could make on the film. > >The second choice is a geared DC motor but how will I have an > >accurate positioning ? I thought about coupling a 360° pot or using a > >perforated disk with sensors kinda like in a mouse. > >I'll drive the motor with a microprocessor, PIC or basic stamp. > >I prefer the step motor because it's easier for me to drive it. > >For now I'm just at the draft drawing point, trying to put all my > >ideas on paper but I hope I'll soon have a prototype. > >I already made a few draws. The first ones where what I wanted to > >have but now I'm drawing something that looks like what I want but > >easier to build with the tools I have and the materials I can afford. > >I try to make it compact, easy to build, easy to use and not very > >expensive. That a tricky exercise ! > >I'll also try to include the possibility to switch from 28 mm to 50 > >mm if I have time to look for a solution of easy switching gears. > > > > Regards, > >Cedric. > > > >On Mon, 23 Sep 2002 19:39:21 -0700 (PDT), david hajjab wrote: > > >Cedric, > > >What type of panoramic camera do you want to make? > > >David > > > > > >__________________________________________________ > > >Do you Yahoo!? > > >New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo! > > >http://sbc.yahoo.com > > >_______________________________________________ > > >Cameramakers mailing list > > >[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers > > > > > >-- > >Cedric Malitte, [EMAIL PROTECTED] on 24/09/2002 > > > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Cameramakers mailing list > >[EMAIL PROTECTED] > >http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers > > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 3 > From: "John Cremati" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 18:30:22 -0400 > Subject: [Cameramakers] Journey to the dark slide > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Hello out there... > I am in the process of trying to build a light weight 20x24 camera > along with 12 single film carriers.. The initial stage is to build the > film carriers so that the ground glass can be positioned accurately.. I have > a idea for a " New " design for the film carrier which I will share with > everyone in the near future . It is amazingly simple {if it works}, will > be cheap to build and will have several serious advantages over a > conventional film carriers. I am still trying to figure things out at this > point.. There seems to be nothing new under the sun so maybe this will > end up not being a fresh idea after all... > I intend to make the film carriers and camera out of > Alloonneeyyuumm.... > > My biggest obstacle at this moment is that I am hung up on the > design of the light trap for the dark slide....At $10 per sheet of film I > would like to come up with a fool proof design.. > > Are there any publications on making film carriers? > > Presently I am also trying to decide on the material used for the dark > slide( I was thinking of using either black Formica or black rigid " > Sintra" which is a expanded PVC product.. see below ) Does any one have any > other suggestions as far as dark slide material or experience with this > Sintra? . I believe it is also manufactured under the name Komatex, and > Celtec... This material is very light and seems to be quite durable...... > > Sintra : ( written by a distributor) > Sintra is a closed-cell, expanded plastic that has high strength-to-weight > ratio for superior workability. The material is so easy to work with, you > can build your displays, exhibits, and signage in half the time. That means > half the labor and fabrication costs. > Sintra material is made to stay flat. But it has the formability to take on > any design. And its edges cut clean with uniform color throughout. No > fraying or unattractive inner core. Plus sintra is tough enough to be used > over and over again. So you can use your display, exhibit or sign year after > year. > This material can be fabricated using conventional wood tools. Saw it. Drill > it. Glue it. Die cut it. Nail it. Silk screen it. Truly a versatile material > for state-of-the-art displays, exhibits and signs. Plus it;s a UL-recognized > component with a 94VO fire rating for low flame spread. > Available in White, Black, and colors and comes in very thin 1/16 inch to > over 3/4 inch in thick... > Regards, > John Cremati > > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 4 > Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 17:53:21 -0700 (PDT) > From: david hajjab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [Cameramakers] Panor > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Alan, > wouldn't you need some sort of device to keep the > speed consistant? > David > > You need very little effort to move a balanced > pivoting lens. A light > spring > or elastic with an adjustable tensioner will work > except for slow > speeds. > For slower speeds manual with a lever works better > than you might > think. > AZ > Maker of Lookaround panoramic camera. > http://www.panoramacamera.us > or > keyword.com lookaround > > __________________________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo! > http://sbc.yahoo.com > > --__--__-- > > Message: 5 > Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 21:36:48 -0700 > From: Ron Levandoski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [Cameramakers] fluorescent light source for poly papers > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Murray, > Plain ol' cool white lamps work fine for graded or poly papers. If I were > you I'd have a lamp custom made at a sign company - cheap$$! I can give you > more details. > > AZ > Maker of Lookaround panoramic camera. > http://www.panoramacamera.us > or > keyword.com lookaround > > > I am interested in more details as I am planning on building an 8X10 > enlarger! > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 6 > Date: Wed, 25 Sep 2002 09:07:36 -0700 > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > From: Alan Zinn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Panor > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > At 05:53 PM 9/24/2002 -0700, you wrote: > > > >Alan, > >wouldn't you need some sort of device to keep the > >speed consistant? > >David > > > >You need very little effort to move a balanced > >pivoting lens. A light > >spring > >or elastic with an adjustable tensioner will work > >except for slow > >speeds. > >For slower speeds manual with a lever works better > >than you might > >think. > >AZ > > Speed tolerance can be fairly sloppy. Also the exposure time isn't instant > across the whole film but local. The Kodak Panoram has a simple over-center > spring. It has a very wide slit and pans fast. Don't forget the slow film > speeds it used. The rotation speed would have to double or cut in half to > get a one stop change in exposure across the pan. I think with a home-made > camera and modern film just one speed and three aperture changes takes care > of most daylight exposures. You can change the slit width to get more > exposure variables. In low light a full stop change from, say, a two second > exposure is easy counting by thousands. With a long pan lever you can keep > the pan even. The hardest part, it seems to me, is making a perfect film > plane and advancing system. I have no idea how to do better than Kodak > already did with the Panoram. > > AZ > Maker of Lookaround panoramic camera. > http://www.panoramacamera.us > or > keyword.com lookaround > > > > > --__--__-- > > _______________________________________________ > Cameramakers mailing list > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers > > > End of Cameramakers Digest > _______________________________________________ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers
