Retirement & Financial Planning Report Issue
Thursday, September 2, 2004

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In This Week's Issue:
1. Munificent Munis
2. Cashing In
3. Holding Pattern
4. Loss Leaders
5. Retirement & Financial Planning Report Readers Can Get 
DSL-Like Speed Over Your Phone Line at Home 
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6. No Double Dipping
7. Philanthropic Policies
8. The Brand New In-Print 2005 CSRS & FERS Retirement Planning 
Guides Are Now Available For Immediate Shipment! 
***********************************************************

1. Munificent Munis
Many investors would do well to invest in tax-exempt 
municipal bonds rather than taxable bonds. Even if you're 
in the 25 percent income tax bracket, you probably will 
wind up ahead investing in munis. (In 2004, the 25 percent 
tax bracket begins at $29,050 in taxable income, for single 
filers. For married couples filing jointly, the 25 percent 
bracket begins at $59,100 in taxable income.) Higher-bracket 
investors would gain even more by investing in tax-exempt bonds.

Recently, for example, high-quality, 10-year corporate 
bonds were yielding around 5 percent. If you are in a 25 
percent federal tax bracket, you would have a net yield of 
3.75 percent, after-tax: 75 percent of the 5 percent pre-tax 
yield. In the 35 percent federal tax bracket, you would have 
a net yield of only 3.25 percent, after-tax.

You would be much better off with tax-exempt municipal 
bonds yielding 4 percent, assuming comparable maturity and 
credit quality. Investors in high-tax jurisdictions might 
want to buy locally-issued munis, in order to avoid state 
and even local income tax as well as federal tax. The 
municipal bond market can be complex, though, so you should 
work with a knowledgeable advisor to determine which issues 
will be most suitable for your portfolio.

2. Cashing In
For a comfortable retirement, consider these factors:

Your retirement fund must be tapped regularly, to provide 
spending money.

If too much is withdrawn from this fund, too soon, you or 
your spouse might run low on spending money, during a 
lengthy retirement.

You should start with a reasonable amount in the first 
year of retirement. Then increase your withdrawal each 
year to keep pace with inflation. Say you take $20,000 
from your IRA the first full year of retirement. If 
inflation is then 5 percent, you'd increase your withdrawal 
by 5 percent, to $21,000. Keep increasing withdrawals in 
this manner, each year.

Drawing down your retirement fund by around 5 percent in 
Year One is a feasible plan for many retirees. You'll be 
on safer grounds with a 4 percent withdrawal while starting 
at the 6 percent level increases the risk you'll outlive 
your money. However, if you have a substantial federal 
annuity you might consider taking more risk with a higher 
initial payout.

3. Holding Pattern
If your investment plan includes taxable bonds (Treasuries, 
corporate issues, mortgage-backed securities), they should 
be held inside a tax-deferred retirement account such as 
an IRA or a 401(k). Suppose, for example, you have 
$100,000 in an IRA and $100,000 in a taxable account. Assume 
your asset allocation is divided 50-50, between stocks and 
taxable bonds.

You should hold the bonds inside your IRA, where the tax on 
the interest income will be deferred. You won't have to pay 
that tax until you withdraw money from your IRA.

You should hold your stocks in the taxable account. As long 
as you don't take gains, you would owe little or no tax each 
year. Dividends and capital gains would be taxed no higher 
than 15 percent, under current law.

On the other hand, if you invest in municipal bonds, they 
should be held in your taxable account, to get tax-exempt 
interest. If there is still room in your taxable account, 
for some stocks as well as municipal bonds, you should hold 
dividend-paying stocks there, to take advantage of low tax 
rates on dividends.

4. Loss Leaders
The financial markets have been so volatile lately that you 
probably have some losses in your portfolio, especially in 
stocks and stock funds. (Stocks tend have greater potential 
gains but also larger losses.) If so, you should realize any 
losses you have, for tax purposes:

Up to $3,000 worth of net capital losses can be deducted 
each year, from your other income. Moreover, if you wind up 
with net losses each year you won't owe tax on realized 
capital gains.

Excess net capital losses may be carried forward to future 
years. Again, they can be deducted, at $3,000 per year.

Net losses that you carry forward can offset future gains 
so that you won't owe tax on those gains. Such losses also 
can reduce your tax on gains from other areas, such as real 
estate. Moreover, if you invest in mutual funds with loss 
carry-forwards, you may not have to pay tax on any trading 
gains for years.

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6. No Double Dipping
The Savings Incentive Match Plans for Employees (SIMPLE 
plans) contribution limit is scheduled to rise from 
$9,000 in 2004 to $10,000 in 2005. Participants who are 
at least 50 years old can contribute another $1,500 in 
2004, $2,000 in 2005, and $2,500 in 2006. Thereafter, 
those upper limits will be followed by inflation 
adjustments. 

However, if you have a SIMPLE plan for a sideline business 
while you're in a 401(k)-type plan (such as the federal 
Thrift Savings Plan) at your day job, the total amount you 
can put into both plans can't exceed $13,000 in 2004, or 
$16,000 if you're age 50 or over. Say you're 48 years old 
and you put $8,000 into your TSP account this year. Your 
SIMPLE contribution will be capped at $5,000.

You should be aware that a 25 percent penalty applies for 
withdrawals from SIMPLE IRAs before age 59 1/2 in the first 
two years you participate. After that, the regular 10 percent 
early withdrawal penalty takes effect. Similarly, rollovers 
from a SIMPLE IRA to a regular IRA are not allowed until after 
the two-year period has expired.

7. Philanthropic Policies
Donating an existing life insurance policy to charity is 
common and easy to understand. You can make a significant 
contribution with a relatively modest cost. Most charities 
will list you as a donor of the amount of the death benefit 
even though you're only paying the premiums.

Generally, cash value (�permanent life�) policies are used. 
Term life policies run out at some point; when you make a 
gift to charity, you want it to happen, so permanent life 
policies work best.

Suppose you have paid $50,000 in premiums on a $500,000 life 
insurance policy. You no longer need the insurance so you 
give it to charity, which will receive $500,000 at your 
death. The policy can be removed from your taxable estate, 
no gift tax need be paid, and you can deduct the $50,000 
that you've paid.

After such a donation, if you write checks for ongoing 
premium payments directly to the insurance company, your 
deduction can't exceed 30 percent of you adjusted gross 
income (AGI). Instead, you should write checks to the 
charity, which can pay the premiums. This latter strategy 
allows your contributions to be deductible up to 50 percent 
of your AGI. Either way, excess charitable contributions 
can be carried forward and deducted for up to five years.

8. The Brand New In-Print 2005 CSRS & FERS Retirement 
Planning Guides Are Now Available For Immediate Shipment! 

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