Interesting thread.
I boat extensively single-handed, and in narrow locks its not too difficult provided there arent too many helpful; civilians about. Tiller strings are essential to stop the tiller flapping about and getting damaged In narrow locks, Downhill I always tie the boat forward from the rings on the cabin side that are where the back-end rail would be if the boat had one (not with a hitch, but with a number of turns around a strapping stump so it doesnt jam). This stops the boat running back onto the cill There is a centre line, but it WILL catch on shafts, etc on the cabin top so its a bit of a nuisance. On the Shroppie theres usually a stump near the bottom of the lock, the linear descendent of the one that horseboat or butty steerers use to holds the boat forward when going uphill. If theres no stump then a light line from the front stud with a couple of turns round the gate-paddle gear does the same thing, Draw half a paddle or less, then, toddle down to the next lock in the flight, fill and open top gate. Toddle back to boat By now the lock will be ¾ empty and its safe to fully draw the paddles. Open gates (in narrow locks its quite safe to open one then step across onto the footboard of the other one) If the balance beams are wooden, I then undo the line & hop down onto the boat, and motor out. Stop in the tail and close the gates by pushing on the balance beams with the short shaft. Most wooden beams on the Shroppie have a wooden pad so the shaft-head doesnt damage the beams. On to next lock and repeat. If the bottom gates have steel beams Ill rope the boat out, doesnt take long, then close gates Going uphill, bring the boat to a stand with the bow fender against the cill, then engage forward tickover. Most locks DONT have a suitable stump for tying forward to. Close bottom gates and draw half a paddle. Nip up to next lock, draw both bottom paddles (or open the gates if its empty) and nip back to boat. Draw paddles fully. (nb This is only where that top gates have smooth rising boards, otherwise its not safe to leave the boat in the lock) When the lock comes level the boat will gently start the top gate. Drop paddle, cross lock & drop other paddle(s), then get back on boat, Stop in head of lock, hop off (with line) close gate. If theres someone coming up behind their lock-wheeler will usually close the gate. If theres someone short-handed following and theres nobody coming the other way, I generally draw half a paddle. If someones coming the other way I of course leave the lock ready for them. On to the next lock, bring the boat to a stand with the front fender in the vee of the bottom gates, then open with some gentle tickover and repeat. I generally find I can keep up with most mob-handed boaters these days. Broad locks are slower as its not safe to leave the boat unattended, so lock hopping is the order of the day, unless theres someone to share with, in which case I offer to breast up (Only one engine needed anyway for w boats) Worst problems are with helpful people who open paddles before its safe to do so, and people who close gates in your face when they dont need to (but the boatyard said....). There is of course a special corner of hell reserved for people who turn locks round against others. Oh yes, my centre lines dont quite reach the blades, and the stern tying-up line (and occasional snatcher) is ALWAYS kept on the cabin slide when not in use, to (a) keep it out of the blades and (b) stop the windlass from knocking seven bells out of the paint when I put it down between locks A wise old boatman once told me one hand for yourself and one for the boat Best health and safety briefing Ive ever had Ray Butler Nb Owl [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
