RE: catalina27-talk: winterizing (while I'm at it...)

[Rory Hammond]

This site has decent images of engine and coolant drain.

http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/universal/200157/universal-owners-manual-m-18-specifications.html

The Emmerichs <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Don, Pls send a  short version if you would.

 

I went through this when I first launched my boat about 3 years ago.  I didn't feel antifreeze when I first checked, filled to just below the seal ring, ran the engine again and I still didn't feel any.  Thinking there may be a leak, I looked below the engine and in the bilge but didn't find any antifreeze.  So I filled it again, ran the engine and this time there was coolant.  So, since I haven't had any overheating problems before or since, it looks to me as there was air trapped somewhere in the system.

 

What you say that the cooling system drain is located on the starboard side of the engine below the oil dipstick is is directly opposite to what my engine manual states.  The manual states the drain is on the port side below the alternator.  I'll look next time down to the boat but this puts the value of the entire manual in question.

 

John Emmerich

5874 C27 TR

Louisville, KY

-----Original Message-----
From: catalina27-talk@memberclicks.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Don Brooks
Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2005 3:43 PM
To: catalina27-talk@memberclicks.com
Subject: Re: catalina27-talk: winterizing (while I'm at it...)

You certainly can't look into the manifold with the cap off, so you have to use your finger for a dip stick.  To refill, I use a shallow funnel.  I pour small cups of 50/50 mix of coolant into the funnel.  There is a block drain on the starboard side of the engine, just aft of the oil dip stick tube.  Mine will not budge and since it is in a very hard to reach place, I quit trying.  The system holds about 3 quarts of coolant.  You can get over a quart out by pumping out the manifold.  If you have a water heater, you can remove the bottom line and drain out some there.  I don't have a set schedule to change the coolant.  Each time I open the system to change a line or work on the heat exchanger, I drain out all I can get.  I never re-use it and replace with a 50/50 mix of Prestone.  

  Someone asked about the plug on the heat exchanger.  That is your zinc and only drains sea water.

   Don't forget that when you drain your coolant, you stand a good chance of an airlock when it is refilled.  An airlock will cause your engine to overheat.  We talked about this at great lengths on the other site, but will be glad to walk you through the procedure.

   Don, #6293, M-18, Niceville, FL

 

"Jeffery L. Sheler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Thanks, Jim. I understand that part, i.e., draining and drawing antifreeze
into the raw water cooling/exhaust system. It's the enclosed (fresh water)
cooling system that I'm not certain about, with filler/pressure cap at top
of engine. After reading John Emmerich's post from yesterday, it sounds
like I need to drain and maybe flush that system and refill with a 50-50
antifreeze solution. ! I'm not sure how to go about doing that. I'm also not
sure how to check the coolant level in that system since the pressure cap
is at the top of the engine and I can't see into the opening after removing
the cap. Is there another way to check the coolant level that I'm missing here?

At 09:33 AM 11/26/2005, you wrote:
>Jef f
> If you have the manual for your motor(mine is a universal M-18 page 16
>describes a "wet storage " method of s! toring the boat that is what I use
>here in the frozen north. M.A. You simply unhok the raw water intake after
>closing the sea cock, drain any water that is in your filterscreen and hose,
>place the intake hose in a bucket with a gallon or two of anti freeze, and
>start the engine and run it slowly untill a helper sees the anti freeze
>comming out the exhaust. If the boat is in the water you would need to catch
>the anti freeze that comes outof the exhaust or use none toxic. You should
>now have antifreeze in the sea water pump, hoses, heat exchanger, and
>exhaust system. The whole process takes 15 min with no crawlingaround inside
>the engine compartment-
>
> Jim Savicki
> Fifth Tuition 1989 c-27
> Snug Harbor, Duxbury M.A.- Original Message -----

Jeff Sheler
s/v Windsome
C27TR #6594
Hampton, VA

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Rory Hammond

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