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This is in response to the chat that has been going on about replacement motors and transom cut-outs. I re-powered my 1972 Catalina 27 over 4 years ago and revamped my transom over 3 years ago. I have a number of photos of this, and so as to not cause you downloading problems, photos are at the following link: http://photoshare.shaw.ca/view.php?VEID=15802_iGtAwF1146160011fUZBOf&mesg=1
For those that have interest, the "saga" on this follows.
S/V STAARDANCER 250-472-2069
Motor: The boat came with a 9.9 hp Honda electric start that was at the end of
its useful life. I replaced it with
an 8 hp Yamaha T8ELRB. This is an
electric start, remote control, no tiller on the motor and short shaft. The reasons I selected this motor
were in order of preference the flush out system (attach garden hose direct
to motor when it is in the tilted position), the high-thrust design including
an open prop hub that in reverse puts lots of water over the rudder, the
electrical output (about 6 amps, same as the Honda 9.9), and the good comments
from owners at the marina. I did
have some problems and after a year exchanged it for a 2002 model which was the
exact duplicate. That motor has
been a dream. Initial problems: There was a minor leak where the transom met the hull in the area of the rudderpost. At the dock this amounted to a few cups of water a week, more when using the motor. It seemed to me that the thrust of modern motors was greater than the designers thought about in 1972. When motoring, the cowling of the motor was almost in the water and under sail the prop would drag in the water. Modifications: I discussed the problems with a local marine fibreglass person and decided to haul the boat, raise the bottom of the cut out 3 to 4 inches, widen the cut out 2 inches on each side and strengthen it all to meet the thrust of the new motor. This would also solve my slow leak. It resulted in about 4 days on the hard and cost me $700 Cdn (back when the US Dollar was worth something compared to the Canadian Dollar). There would be modifications required on the transom locker cover. The previous owner had modified it for the 9.9 Honda a cut out @ 10 x 10 with a 1 rise put over. This would not be sufficient for the Yamaha after raising it 4. While the fibreglass was done by a pro, I did the transom locker design mock-up redesign re-mock-up redesign again and construction. I used the when handed lemons, make lemonade, thought process Results: The motor not only installed 4 higher but also about an inch or two back due to the slope of the transom. This allowed me to adjust the vertical of the motor one click more to the vertical than before without hitting the rudder and this resulted in about a half-knot more speed at the same RPM. The cowling is no longer that close to the water when motoring. The propeller doesnt drag in the water. The leak was fixed! Its been 3+ years since the modification and I am 100% pleased with it. The Yamaha high-thrust prop works very well when backing up. It is almost but not quite as responsive as backing up a car. I am amazed as the control I have in reverse. If you look at the photo's you will see a home-made tiller that I thought would be good for emergency turning. I have not had to use it in 4 years. Transom Locker Modification: The lemons to lemonade comment was made because of the usefulness of the new transom locker. I made a new seat about 14 wide and 10 deep, rising about 4 above the original. The top of the new seat is equal to the transom gunwale. I had to move the hinge from the transom locker to the top of the new seat in order for it to work. The lemonade is that when motoring I can sit on this new seat and see over the cabin top. With my auto helm and remote controls handy I have complete control while sitting back, quite comfortable and reading a book. Raising, Lowering and Flushing Yamaha: |
- catalina27-talk: TRANSOM MODIFICATION; YAMAHA 8 HP MOTOR Dave Trace
- Re: catalina27-talk: TRANSOM MODIFICATION; YAMAHA 8 HP... Lesley C. Quin
