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Actually that should say hair gel. Really have to proof these posts before I hit send
From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry Robertie
Bob,
The line is pretty standard stuff, no problem there. Getting it onto the fittings is a bear. This is going to sound strange but hear me out – us a bit of hail gel to lube up the fitting before you put the line on. While it’s still gel it acts as a lubricant, and when it sets you get a nice hold. Obviously you still need to use two clamps. This is the same technique motorcycle shops use to get handgrips on the handlebars.
As far as purging the air. . I’ll assume you have an electric pump. Start from the tank and work your way from there. If you have a Raco start by bleeding that and then close the bleed valve. Then open the bleed screw and bleed until you get fuel. Third, there is a thumb screw, starboard side forward on the engine. After you are done, make sure all of the bleed screws are closed. If one of them opens you will loose pressure and the engine will die.
I know it sounds like a lot but don’t sweat it. Last year I had my tank completely emptied and refilled (to get rid of some bad fuel). After we re-filled the tank and before bleeding I said to the mechanic “just for laughs let’s crank it and see what happens”. I let the pump run for about 30 seconds and cranked it. She started on the third turn.
Larry Robertie Cheeky Monkey Boston, MA
From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Any suggestions on replacing the fuel lines on a diesel engine?
Lines, grease for the fitting, purging the line of air, etc.
Thanks.
Bob |
