Re: catalina27-talk: Fixing teak

[Rudolph S. Behar]

My2c Harbor Freight sells a Japanese saw-onthe-pulll-stroke-teeth -to-one-side saw that's very effective, as someone )see above) has already said.  The chisel approach takes more stediness  than I've got anymore. Harbor Freight also has a British ditto that can be flipped to be used on either side of a cut.  That's the one I use, and its OK Rudy B. Chris Maddox wrote: Harvey, The traditional way to do this is to use a very sharp wood chisel.  Start well above the top of the wood surface so that you can discover how the plug is going to cleave, and work your way down until you are within 1/16" or so (on the low side).  Then sand it the rest of the way flush. The cheater method for those of us only semi-skilled (meaning what I have done) is to take a hacksaw blade, and wrap masking tape around it near one end until you've built up about 1/32" to 1/16" of tape on the flats of the blade.  Repeat this a short distance down the blade so that there is about 1-1/2" of exposed blade between the tape wraps.  Now you can saw the plug off while keeping the blade supported above the surface on the tape wraps (and not scar the wood).  Sand when finished. Dave may have a better way, but I think the 'true' wood guys get out the ol' razor sharp chisel. Chris - ever the cheater At 07:16 PM 6/12/2006, you wrote: Hi Dave, What's the secret of trimming off the plug, without the top of the split plug going below  the surface of the surroundng teak? Harvey Rosenberg, C-27TR #6023, 1985, M-18, Kalaurel, Stony Point NY ------ Original Message ------ Received: Mon, 12 Jun 2006 02:16:21 PM EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: catalina27-talk@memberclicks.com Subject: Re: catalina27-talk: Fixing teak Bob - Depends on whether or not you want to be able to remove them. If the plugs will be permanent then I use a little brown wood glue on dark wood, yellow glue on light wood. After the glue dries, trim the plug off near the wood surface, sand down even and then varnish over. For less permanent installations you can put a dab of silicone on the screw and press in the plug - but I don't find that holds very well. What I use is a dab of hot glue - a reall small dab, gently tap the plug into place, trim off and sand and varnish. The plug should dry fit tightly and shouldn't be loose in the hole. I have a set of plug cutters so I can pretty much match the plug to the hole. It's surprising how the holes grow once you've removed the plugs a couple of times so being able to cut your own plugs out of scrap teak or mahogany is nice. Teak doesn't really swell so don't expect it to fill the void like a soft wood. The trick to removing a plug is to drill a small pilot hole and th! en slow ly screw a small screw into the plug that's double the depth of the plug. Once it bottoms out on the screw underneath it will start driving the plug out. With something like Cetol you may want to either sand down over the plug to remove the finish or carefully score around the perimeter. -- Dave - just plugging along C27 #5212 Windabout Cape Cod http://dpbcc.home.comcast.net -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Last year I removed the sliding hatch teak trim. I never got around to putting > the plugs back in over the screws that hold down the trim. All the teak needs > refinishing so I'm now looking to do it. Should an adhesive of some type be > used? Should the plugs be inserted then watered so that they swell, dried out > (natural process), then finished? > What are your suggestions? > Bob Mann > '85, #5928 Windcatcher > --------------------------------------------- > Attachment: Forwarded Message > MIME Type: message/rfc822 > ---------------------------------------------