Phil,
As always, outstanding. Your knowledge and explanation
is amazing. I have been doing just the opposite. I have a
170 Genoa ( I've been told ), no padding, and it really drives my boat.
But if the wind picks up I would reef it in, more wind more reef.
Heavy wind puffs and I would have it half reefed and
still be slamed over and finally just furl it in and sail main only.
Thinking the headsail was too big in the heavy wind.
I gather then I should headsail all in or all out, or purchase
as smaller, 150, 120 ?
Thanks again
Patrick
----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Agur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 4:34 PM
Subject: RE: catalina27-talk: Headsail
Patrick,
Ref: http://www.catalina27.org/SN-FTP/Sail%20Cuts.jpg
In a sail loft they would hang the sail horizontally with a taught
luff and
pull on the sheet cringe to examine the shape and draft. You can do
the same
by hoisting one and looking at its draft (depth of the foil shape)
follow by
the other. The flatter one would be the reefing sail.
The simplest way to identify a reefing headsail would be to find a
luff pad
sew behind the leach. A "Foam" luff pad was in vogue for a while but it
tended to degrade.
Trying to reefing a full cut headsail for high winds is bad because the
furler foil you are using to roll the sail gathers the cloth uniformly
along
its length. That means the extra cloth that forms the draft for the fully
unrolled sail gets pushed back into the unrolled portion of the sail
as you
go. The draft of the remaining portion of sail gets deeper. Very soon
into
this process the shape is so bad the sail won't drive anymore and just
contributes a heavy heeling force and could force a lee helm condition.
Instead of being light and lively joy to sail in heavy air the boat sails
heavy and the skipper gets the feeling he's just hanging on.
A reefing headsail is cut flatter to start with and may not be effective
below 10 knots. When it gets rolled a luff pad built into the sail
effectively gives the furler a tapered foil skinny on the ends but
thick in
the middle. As the cloth rolls up the thicker middle gathers the extra
cloth
used to form the draft and the sail remains well shape and driving the
boat
safely forward. The sail designer knows where to position the pad and how
thick it needs to be to match the cut of his sail so it can work quite
well.
It's much better, if you don't have a reefing headsail, to learn how to
reshape the draft of a sail with luff tension controls and headsail twist
with fairlead position to adapt to changing wind conditions. In fact it
might be better if everyone learned this before relaxing with a reefing
headsail.
The main is adjusted in the same manner with luff tension controls to
pull
the draft forward and flatten the draft while traveler position (and
vang)
and allows the sail to twist off before reefing.
Phil Agur s/v Wing Tip
Commodore, Call Sign WCW3485
IC27/270A MMSI 366901790
www.catalina27.org Vessel Doc# 1039809
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Patrick R Ford
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 12:49 PM
To: IC27A
Subject: catalina27-talk: Headsail
Listers,
Article on furling and headsails in the August Mainsail
Technical Pull out section. There is a standard headsail
and reefing headsail.My sail came with the boat. How can I visually
tell if
it is reefing or standard ? Why is a reefed, non
reefing sail " very bad in high winds " ?
Pat Ford
Seabiscuit 3692
Port Washington, WI
