Philip,
I have no idea what your skill level is but having worked for a builder and
in a full service boat yard, I can tell you that what you are contemplating
is a very large job. The weights involved alone should deter all but the
most capable (and equipped) "semi" pro.
I'm not trying to sell you a new boat but....I happen to have a sound 27
hull that can be had for a VERY reasonable price.
Mark, "Gratis" (6115) and others
Want to keep your WHOLE PAYCHECK?
PLEASE VISIT http://www.fairtax.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Tamblyn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2007 9:09 PM
Subject: RE: catalina27-talk: catalina 27_talk RE: Keel stub repair


> Man that sounds like a big job.
> Would you be better off going shopping for another boat? The man hours
> to do this (remove the keel)could be huge. Even assuming you have the
> skills and tools to do this job, does it make sense for a boat of this
> age? I was thinking twice about the investment into painting the deck on
> my boat given its age and value.
>
> Either way getting some opinions from people who have done keel bolt
> repair jobs of this kind would be important. I have yet to hear of a
> Catalina 27 that lost its keel. No doubt it has happened but it might be
> worth talking to some experienced yards and repair folks before making
> any decisions.
>
> Mark Tamblyn
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Phillip HDz
> Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2007 9:55 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: catalina27-talk: catalina 27_talk RE: Keel stub repair
>
> must have missed that post.
>
> well here's the story.
>
> Just got ready to sail this season and happen to notice water around one
> of
> my keel bolts.Being new to all this, it made me alittle nervous. did
> some
> searching and found Judy B,s websight( must look for her pics.). got the
>
> Catalina Diagram.
> So my next step was to try and tighten the bolts. Each one was really
> losse.
> So I tightened them up abit. Next time out there was a little more
> water,
> not much maybe a couple of tablespoons. tighen bolts abit, next time
> little
> bit of water. So on and so on till I tightened and had some other things
> to
> do onboard then looked again and you could see the water seepping out
> beside
> the one bolt and one other place just in front of the bow keel bolt.
> Next time I took a drill and a wet suit. Drilling a hole in a boat below
> the
> waterline, just doesn't seem right, but I did it. Drilled about a 3/8
> hole.
> the fiberglass on the top is very thin ( Dremal sure to the job, real
> nice).
> Afterward took a smaller bit and twisted the drill bit in by hand at a
> diagonal slant. wasn't hard to do. Anyway you could take that  "wood"
> and
> squese it and watch the water go out, then if you took the "wood" and
> rubbed
> it between your fingers it would turn to dust. Can't be good.
>
> the keel bolts were changed to stainless by the a PO. And I know they
> uesd a
> tube of 3M 5200 to glue it on. now I haven't gone diving to see if see
> has a
> smile or not. But at this point I am thinking that the water is fresh
> water
> that was sitting in it by a PO. Haven't done the taste test (gringe) to
> see
> if it is salt water or fresh.
>
> So at this point here's where I think I am. The old "wood" needs to come
> out
> and fiberglass laminate in. Waiting for the boat hauling co. to take her
> out
> and put her in the front yard. what i am waiting to see if she has a
> smile
> and or crack in the joint. If see doesn't I will do the catalina method
> with
> the keel in place. If she has a smile or crack I may drop the keel and
> then
> fix the keel stub and put it all back together.
>
> Hope I am on the right track.
>
> Scared to go sailing, in case the keel falls off on a good heel. Must be
>
> alot of pressure on the side of the keel. Don"t think it can be good for
> the
> boat, without full torque on the bolts. And I am scared that if I torque
>
> them now, I will break thru the top layer of glass.
>
> While she is out, gonna re-embed all deck hardware, change layout in
> cabin,
> fix a coulbe of blisters on the bottom of keel, new water barriar and
> bottom
> paint, give her a spit shine and polish.
>
> We will know each other really well by the time it's all done. Its gonna
> be
> fun.
>
> thats the story so far.
>
> Phillip Day
> Crystal Raven
> #2549
>
>
>
> >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Subject: Keel stub repair
> >Date: Thu, 31 May 2007 11:42:21 -0700
> >
> >This is a post I did about a week ago on the Catalina 27 list.  I'm not
> >sure how you search the list for old posts, so I'm sending it to you.
> >This same keelstub repair is also posted on Judy B's Catalina 27
> Webpage.
> >She has lots of great pictures and commentary about refitting her C-27
> on
> >that site.
> >I think a Dremel tool or a flex shaft off of a drill would be the tool
> to
> >use to cut the plywood out.  (Using a router bit)
> >
> >*********  Posted 5/24/07  ********
> >
> >
> >I did a archive search on www.catalinaowners.com, and came up with
> >recommendations of 83 to 105 ft pounds of torque. YMMV
> >Here is a link for the the keel stub repair if you have a pre 1988 Cat
> and
> >can't cure the Catalina Smile.
> >http://www.catalina30.com/TechLib/MastColumnBilgeKeel/keelstub.gif
> >I understand that older Cats had mild steel J shaped bolts embedded in
> the
> >keel (in the lead).  If seawater gets in there, galvanic corrision will
> >start in the keel, with the result that the bolt will start turning
> into
> >crud, in a sort of hourglass shape (like two pencil points).  The lead
> is
> >more noble than the steel.
> >If the keel is firmly glued to the hull, it won't matter if you torque
> the
> >bolts in the water or on the hard.  Since all you will be pulling is
> the
> >bolt against the keel structure.  But if the keel is loose, then the
> keel
> >is exerting downward pull in the water, while you are pulling up on the
> >bolt in the boat.  This can cause a more stress on the bolt, and if its
> >weakned, may cause it to break.
> >I would start at something like 30 ft lbs, torque each bolt, then
> increase
> >the torque by 10 ft lbs and do each bolt again until I reached my
> desired
> >torque value.  If any bolt breaks, well you needed to know that anyway,
> >but I'd stop after the first one broke :)
> >
> >Jim McEwen, Tequila Chica, 1973 Cat 27, Dana Point, CA
>
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