Ralph,

Are you expecting me to complain about soldering? 

Ralph's technique is fine but requires prior experience with soldering, and it 
would be best if you were not a self taught but had some training. Of course 
between the lines Ralph said he first used a western union splice, then sealed 
it against oxygen with rosin core solder to prevent oxidation, and sealed out 
moisture with low temp adhesive lined shrink tubing to prevent corrosion. 

Even though I was once anointed by the military to solder on electronics for 
manned space flight my bilge connections are not soldered. Instead the wires 
were stripped with a nick free stripper, inserted into a low temp adhesive 
lined Anchor Brand butt splice sized for the wire, then crimped to a form a gas 
tight seal using the correct ratchet style crimper, and sealed it against 
moisture with the heat shirk feature included on the terminal.

Either technique done properly will work however the crimp terminal is 
considered more reliable.

Phil Agur                     s/v Wing Tip
Secretary,                    Call Sign WCW3485
IC27/270A                   MMSI 366901790 
www.catalina27.org    Vessel Doc# 1039809
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Ralph E. Ahseln 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 8:48 AM
  Subject: Re: catalina27-talk: re: bad bilge pump


  Bob,

  FWIW,
  I'd replace the current float switch, out of  hand. 
  I'd replace any ...Older float switch even if it was working,  just on 
general principles.

  Consider replacement with a modern Electronic Sensor Switch. Such as the West 
Marine.
  See:    http://tinyurl.com/3mk5hh 

  It's easy to install on our C27's,  Easy to test (by touching), relatively 
small and..relatively inexpensive.
  It has a Start delay 
  and a "Run After" delay (water depth), to help with the problem of the hose 
Back Flow.

  As to wiring.

  I'm sure I'll piss off some, But..   I would SOLDER (yes, I said it, 
...solder) ...  the entire length of the Splice (s)..
  THEN ..  use Adhesive Shrink Tubing ... Over the splice(s)   With a generous 
Over length, at least an half inch on each end,
  making sure the Goop is "squirting" out of the ends.

  UW
  Ralph Ahseln
  "Oblio"
  Gresham OR


    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
    To: [email protected] 
    Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 8:02 AM
    Subject: catalina27-talk: re: bad bilge pump


    I couldn't find any in-line fuse for the bilge pump so it is presumably 
using the control panel fuse only.

    I cut the wires between the pump and the float switch and temporarily wired 
the pump only.  When I turned on the panel switch, the pump started running. 
So, apparently there is a short or problem with the float.  I will check that 
out tonight/tomorrow between major thunderstorms.

    What can go wrong with a float switch? I can think of two things right off 
the bat: 1) connections are bad/corroded, etc. or 2) contact isn't being made 
when the float lifts.  Other ideas, and, should I just outright replace the 
float switch?

    What is the best way to make wire connections in the bilge area - 
heat-shrink wrap?

    Bob Mann

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