Here comes too much info: All 300 series stainless steels (301, 304, 316, etc.)
fall under the 18-8 spec for Austenitic Stainless Steels. These steels are work
hardened to achieve higher strengths, as they are not heat-treatable. The basic
grade, 302, contains 18% Chromium and 8% nickel. The percentages of those
alloying agents are varied slightly to achieve different properties. 316 is a
good choice for this application, because it has good corrosion (and crevasse
corrosion) resistance.
I have included, for the truly interested, a sheet from the Mil Spec that
covers this stuff, which gives some guidance about specific applications of
specific alloys.
Table 2.7.0.1. Characteristics of Some AISI 300 Series Stainless Steels
AISI Characteristics
301 High work-hardening rate; applications requiring high strength and
ductility.
302 Higher carbon modification of Type 304 for higher strength on cold rolling.
303 Free-machining sulfur modification of Type 302.
303Se Free-machining selenium modification of Type 302.
304 General-purpose austenitic grade for enhanced corrosion resistance.
304L Low-carbon modification of Type 304 for welding applications.
305 Low work-hardening rate; spin-forming and severe spin-drawing operations.
309 High-temperature strength and oxidation resistance.
309S Low-carbon modification of Type 309 for welded construction.
310 High-temperature strength and oxidation resistance greater than Type 309.
310S Low-carbon modification of Type 310 for welded construction.
314 Increased oxidation resistance over Type 310.
316 Mo added to improve corrosion resistance in reducing environments; improved
creep resistance
over Type 302.
316L Low-carbon modification of Type 316 for welded construction.
317 Increased Mo to improve corrosion resistance over Type 316 in reducing
media.
321 Titanium stabilized for service in 800E to 1600EF range and to minimize
carbide precipitation
when welding for resistance to intergranular corrosion.
347 Columbium stabilized for service in 800E to 1600EF range and to minimize
carbide
precipitation when welding for resistance to intergranular corrosion.
Keith Sneddon
Yes, I am a geek!
________________________________
From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
James Calleran
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 10:56 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: catalina27-talk: Keel bolts
Listees,
After a, ahem, hard grounding, my Catalina smile has reappeared (last seen
6-7 years ago) - not badly, but a thin line at the keel joint is visible on one
side. The boatyard service manager has recommended re-torque-ing the keel
bolts. Naturally, the yard will do the job for a fee, though I don't have a
quote. I'm concerned about these 30 yr-old bolts breaking off under 60+ ft-lbs
of torque.
Any of you who have done this yourselves:
1. How did you clean off the accumulated rust (They were rusty, right)?
2. Were you able to budge the nuts?
3. Did you remove them -one at a time, of course - and clean the threads?
4. Did you replace with stainless nuts?
5. What torque?
For those who have installed SS Lag Bolts in your keel.
1. Did you buy the $279.95 kit from Catalina Direct? (5 bolts, 1 drill bit,
washers)
2. What size is the drill bit?
3. Did drilling require a rotary hammer type drill, or just a powerful standard
drill?
I have source of SS 1/2" x 8" SS lag bolts @ 14.95 each. Specs say 18-8
stainless; no mention of 316. Thoughts on using these?
Thanks for comments on your experience.
Fair Winds,
Jim Calleran, C27 #2784, Trad, OB
Mathews Yacht Club, VA
37°27.8'N/76°18.6'W
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