I don't know about most people but this solution has been around for decades.
I locate the battery on the failed part with a small magnet, then grind the epoxy down to it then pick it out with a sharp pointed tool. Once I expose the connection point I older two wires then epoxy a small coin-cell holder in that spot and it s done. I've done this more times than I care to count and its effective and the replacement battery some over 10 years old now have not failed. But just in case I have a bag of NOS replacements (and pulls from socketed boards) all with dead batteries from age. There is no magic to this. Allison On 01/22/2017 01:20 PM, Ali wrote: > Jon, > Then why not use a dip compatible version of the DS chip? I mean yes this > allows for switchable battery which is very nice but SMT soldering is not for > everyone. > > I wonder if there is a way to determine if there will be BIOS issues by > switching the DS12887? > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Jon Elson <[email protected]> > Date: 1/22/17 9:16 AM (GMT-08:00) > To: [email protected], "[email protected]:On-Topic and Off-Topic > Posts" <[email protected]> > Subject: Re: DS12887 pcb substitute with battery > > On 01/22/2017 10:07 AM, Ali wrote: >> Al, >> I thought the problem with switching these chips was that part of the ROM >> code was embedded in them? I.e. it isn't just an issue of battery? Am I >> wrong? If I am then why not use one of the replacement chips that are >> available? >> > These don't have a lot of memory on them. many early PCs > stored some config info there, but generally the BIOS can > reconstruct it if it isn't there. I suppose there is a > possibility that random data in the CMOS memory could cause > the BIOS to try to use unavailable features and hang. I > don't think anybody put actual executable code in there. > > Jon
