On 4/25/17 8:57 AM, Paul Koning via cctalk wrote:
A water trap/oil filter is a trivial thing to add. Most come with a regulator which is handy. However, Generally the water and oil content is low to start with unless the compressor is seriously worn or your taking air form the bottom of the tank. Normally its good practice to drain the tank of water anyway. I've painted a few things in my day likeOn Apr 25, 2017, at 6:06 AM, Pete Turnbull via cctalk <[email protected]> wrote: On 25/04/2017 10:08, jim stephens via cctalk wrote:On 4/25/2017 1:39 AM, Pete Turnbull via cctalk wrote:"Little residue" would be more accurate, and some of that residue will be water (look up "azeotrope") - plus you need a lot of alcohol for something the size of a PDP-8 backplane. Blow dry, even after an alcohol rinse.I should perhaps have mentioned that the idea is to flush the remaining water or alcohol out by blowing, not evaporate it like your hairdresser would :-) And you ought to use dry air, ideally - most compressors have water in their air.Worse yet, a lot of compressors have oil in their air. You can attached a dryer/filter to the compressor outlet to block that. Compressors intended for air brush use tend to be set up that way, and/or use a mechanism that doesn't use oil (such as a diaphragm pump).
racing cars.The alternate is a canister of nitrogen gas or cans of "air". The quantity needed
is not all that great.Even after all that I'd still dry it with a little heat (oven at 180F or a clean empty
container in the sun.I've used the dishwasher (sans caustic dish detergent) for cleaning then in the
oven to dry for radios, computer boards, analog boards, and assembliesthat can trap water. Things that turn or move like switches (open wafer for example)
need to have contact treatment and bearing lubrication afterwards. Allison
paul
