If u hunt around u can find similar switches in e-waste or even new. Then make some baskets u can attach. Like they did or if u got patience u can take those right apart and rebuild as the pins sit in a cardboard like material the plastic switch slides on with metal inserts for making contact. Need to get around finishing rebuilding mine.
Mine had been ripped off but it u can see how they are assemble here https://www.flickr.com/photos/1ajs/16586222513/in/album-72157651577592077/ On Sat., Dec. 4, 2021, 3:46 p.m. Chris Zach via cctalk, < [email protected]> wrote: > I've decided it's time to fix my second pdp8/L. First one is missing (I > think it's at the bottom of the closet) so I'll work on this one for > awhile. > > First problem: Testing the lamps and switches. If the switches don't > work or the lamps are out it's not going to be easy to troubleshoot. > Currently I'm missing 5 of the plastic switches, and I have 2-3 switches > with a broken pivot. > > Since I was going to need new plastic switch covers I fired up the 3d > printer, downloaded the STL file for making them (thank you for putting > that up!) and ran off a few for testing. It helps a lot to set the > bridge angle value to 60% or so, that allows a nice solid bridge for the > two "teeth" that engage the rocker switch. Also don't bother with PLA: > The plastic pivots are too weak and break pretty quickly. Use PETG, > which requires higher heat (240 instead of 200 at the head and 70 > instead of 60 at the base) but it is more than strong enough for the > pivots to go in without issues. > > Testing the switches I found that one of the data/address switches was > reading high ohmage (20) when closed in the down direction and two of > the data entry (spring loaded) switches were intermittent. Sprayed in a > bit of Deoxit, and they now switch cleanly and without bounce. That > would probably have driven me crazy if I tried to test with that. > > Next step: Check out the power supply..... > > C >
