On a two week chill-out tour in Bali and Kuala Lumpur with my family. I had
some great surfing sessions in Bali and saw the site in KL. My in-laws were
with us in Bali and went on to Bangkok for a few days. All I have to say is
there has never been a better time to take a vacation in one of these spots.
Bali is heartbreaking- such a beautiful island with wonderful people and
culture, but with a tourism economy decimated by terrorism. I'll post a few
pictures so everyone can see how great it is.

We landed on the one year anniversary of the last Bali bombings. We marked
the occasion by eating a R.aja's, one of the restaurants that was bombed. It
has been re-opened in a new location in Seminyak, a few miles from its
original location in Kuta. I got a R.aja's t-shirt as a reminder that there
are other people in the world who refuse to give in to terrorists. BTW,
clothing is extremely inexpensive in Bali, so if  you go, don't bother to
pack more than one extra change of clothes. Buy everything you need there.
It will be cheap for you, and it means everything to them.


Surfing
----------

I mainly went to Bali to surf. I didn't carry a surfboard with me- my wife
was totally opposed to it on ease of travel principles. Instead, I bought a
board there- a brand new 7'-6" Tuff-Lite board by McTavish, an Aussie shaper
of some reknown. It's a big board meant for big waves, and there were big
waves in Bali. Everyday but one was triple overhead and no joke. I surfed
Seminyak beach break the first day- not much fun at that size, but a good
warm-up to dial in my board. The second day, I surfed Kuta reef, a spot
offshore about 1/2 mile that you get to by fishing boat. The locals charge
about $5 per ride to take you out and back- not a bad little gig for them
and I was only too happy to pay. The first break is a big left that barrels
on the outside and has a killer finish. It was really corwded but I still
managed to get a bunch of waves. I dropped in on one outsider, a 15' wave
that set up beautifully. Some guy dropped in behind me, way too deep to make
the corner, and I bailed mid-way through the wave to avoid a collision. The
best (and worst) thing about bailing on a big barreling wave like that is
that you know you are going to get pancaked. I picked a spot at the base of
the wave and just hopped off my board butt-first into the water. In about a
tenth of a second I was lifted up and thrown into space about twenty feet up
and out, then the whole wave fell on me. As a bonus, when I surfaced there
was another wave coming and I took that one right on the head. Sometimes you
just have to take one for the team. Woo-hoo!!!

The third day my driver, a Balinese guy, was dying to take me down to the
Bukit peninsula, a little mountainous outcropping south of the main tourists
spots that has some of the best reef-breaks in the world. He doesn't surf,
but he has taken surfers before and wanted to get me to the best spots.
First, we went all the way to Uluwatu, the most famous spot on the island.
The break sits at the bottom of a cliff below a Hindu temple in the very
southwest corner of the island. The only way in and out of the break is via
a cave that is partially submerged at high tide. I made my way down the
steps into the cave and paddled out at 9 am, just past high tide. Right out
of the cave mouth were pumping 15' swells in the first peak. I paddled out
and realized I was the only guy in the lineup in a place I had never been. I
caught one inside wave and got washed way to the right- the inside current
is very strong and took my 100 yards north toward Padang, the next break,
two miles away. I got washed to the rocks insid and decided I would be
better off surfing somewhere with other folks around. We made our way to
Dreamland, a little inlet that has a great sharp right-hander and a slightly
barreling left and has plenty of folks around. I spent the rest of the day
there and had a great time. From the lineup, I checked out Padanag and
Impossibles, two spots between Ulu and Dreamland. Padang was 15' and
barreling, looking very gnarly and nasty for all but the best surfers. I
thought about taking it on, but I have the family to think about, so I
passed it up.

The fourth day I surfed Seminyak beach-break again. It was smaller that day,
only 6-10 feet, and great fun at that size. I packed my board and sent it
ahead via air freight. All-in-all, a great surf trip combined with a family
vacation.

KL
-----

Kuala Lumpur is a cool city. It isn't very big, but it has lots of great
stuff to do. Shopping is excellent, but pricier than Bali. Some of the malls
cater to wealthy Arab and Japanese tourists and have the best of the best
from around the world. Fun to see if not to buy. The KL Menara is a spire
ona  hill in the city center that ives you excellent views of everything
around it. You can only go up the first few floors of the Petronas Towers,
Asia's twin towers (and home to one of the high-end malls, the Suria KLCC),
but it is a beautiful piece of architecture to see.  We did a bunch of other
stuff, most of which you can see in any tourist book. All in all a great
place to hang out if you like city life. There are lots of clubs and bars,
mostly catering to the Chinese minority and foreign tourists. The weather is
funky right now. Famrers on Sumatra light huge jungle fires to clear land
this time of year, and the resulting haze makes poor air quality at times in
Malaysia. That part sucked, but the regional governments have made a pact to
fight the problem. See if it gets better next year. KL is worth 3-4 days,
more than that is too much time. Spend a couple of days in Singapore, just a
quick 45 minute plane ride away. I'll have to do that next time.

Flying to Asia, BTW, is no fun from North America. Expect 24 hours total
travel time from leaving your door to arriving at your hotel- and that's
from the West Coast. Take at least ten days there if you can spare it-
turning around after a week is brutal. Malaysian Airlines is a great way to
get to Bali and KL. The airport in KL is maybe the best airport in the
world, no joke.



-- 
---------------
Robert Munn
www.funkymojo.com


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