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Hello: I have found the best thing with a HEI is to replace the orginal 16 gauge "coil wire", with a larger diameter 12 gauge wire, back to the connector at the firewall. I take the wiring harness plug loose at the firewall, pinch the blade connector and remove it from the harness. Then solder the 12 gauge wire on, and reinstall the blade connector into the harness and bolt the harness back into place on the firewall. My guess is: your hesitation is from lack of fuel. Because you have very low vacuum, you are running out of fuel. The weaker vacuum pulls the fuel less, so you have to go richer to compensate. When tuning a carb, you have to trust me, if it falls on it's face, it is 'cause of lack of fuel one hundred percent of the time! A rich condition will cause a lack of crispiness in the throttle response and possibility black smoke out the exhaust, but it would take insane amounts of fuel to kill an engine such as yours. First lets discuss the idle: does it tend to stall when you first start the engine? Are you running a choke? A tendency to stall, without the choke, when cold is OK, the idle should be set for when the engine is at running temp. If it idles fine when first starting, it will be too rich when the engine is up to temp. You can expect fouled plugs from this setting. Next, lets talk about the accelerator pump and nozzle. This will sound a little stupid, but answer this question: Does the car go, then bog, or does the car bog then go? My guess is, that the bog is immediate, off idle. Your engine requires more fuel, and/or it wants it faster. I would also guess, the nozzle is too small. Try a nozzle in the high thirties. If you see some improvement, try going higher. On a Holley, you have to purchase a "Hollow nozzle screw" when going over .042" to prevent flow restriction problems. If the nozzle screw is center drilled with two side holes you are set. Then fine tune the pump circuit with the selection of the pump cam. You will need to pick a pump cam that gives you a bigger pump shot at the beginning. If all of that is helping, but you still need more, it will be time to purchase the 50cc pump kit. But remember, you only want to use just enough fuel to solve the offensive problem. Too much, will give you soggy performance as the engine has to "clear out". My guess is you are lean on the jetting too, for peak power, because your motor is more radical than most street motors. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Hernandez" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2001 10:25 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] HEI ???? RESISTENCE WIRE QUESTION ANYONE? > > Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List > ------------------------------------------------------------ > > > If the resistance wire was not replaced with a pink or what ever color > wire going from the ignition to the HEI, What would be affected and how can > you tell the vehicle is having problems. > > I currently installed an HEI in my 68 chevelle and the car seems to be > running fine at idle. I don't have the module but instead I use the MSD6A > box. Someone help! I'm having hesitation problems while in gear at low > speeds. I don't think its the Demon carb 850cfm with 74 jets front & > 81rears, 31 scquirters on my smll blk 355, 11.0:1 555 lift cam. I want to > make sure its not the wiring so I can make either timing adjustments or > carb tuning adjustments. My power valve is a 2.5 since my vacuum is only at > 5inches in idle park mode. I also recently changed over to internal > regulated ALT. and that's been ruled out. > > P. Hernandez > 68 chevelle > > > > ----------------------------------------------------- > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > ----------------------------------------------------- To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
