Re: [Chevelle-List] No help

[Richard Milkiewicz]

Dale, the sheet metal is run from a huge coil of steel into a progressive die. Progressive die means that it is formed in stages as it moves along in the press to different dies forming the part a little at a time until the part is finished. If the assy' line has orders to build a plain Jane the punches are removed from the upper die and a run is made of 2 or 3 thousand door panels or fenders or quarters. Maybe more, as these dies are huge and some require all day to change and set up, so they need a big float. If they want to put trim holes in the panels they install the punches and make a run of these. The hole are repeated with accuracy each and every time. Now if the operator is hung over, mad at his wife/boss (same) or just doesn't care he can run some junk that will end up on your car. These are usually caught by the end quality guy who will pull the car off line and make repairs. Each part has a jig and gage to check quality. (form and fit) A lot of operators will check parts all the time and if the quality is consistent they will get lax and stop checking. This is where they get in trouble. Invariably, if it can go wrong,... well, you get the picture. Hope this helps some to explain how it's done. Of course this is the simple version. It's really quite involved. Rich ----- Original Message ----- From: 396guy To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 12:34 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] No help Does anyone know "when" the holes in fenders get punched for different trim models?  I would think it would surely be before paint and final assembly.  I would think a jig of some sort was used so trim would be relatively in the same position from model to model.  Meaning, I'm in charge of this stack of front fenders and rear quarters.  Before they leave my station, I need to know if it's a 6-cyl, small block or big block so I can punch the appropriate holes in the front fenders and if it's an SS (using a 67 as an example), do I punch for the front trim spear (Malibu type) or holes for the SS trim rocker panel trim?   And, if I'm making $6-$8 an hour (a guess for 1967) and am bored with my job, do I really care if it's "exactly" the same for each car because in 35 years people are going to want to know?  Maybe it's like build sheets...I can stick it just about anywhere I want mainly because I don't want to throw it on the floor and pick it up later.  If I thought they'd be that important, I'd put them in a glassine envelope and tuck them neatly in the glove box.   Just thinking out loud here...   Dale -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of LXVIISS Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 11:24 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] No help Kelly,   I'm going to bite my tongue here a little bit, since I gave Mark the one answer he received. Yeah, I went out in my garage and took interior and exterior measurements to emblem mounting holes and flats on the emblem letters. The accuracy of the measurements are in the order of +/- 1/32". I don't have a Fisher Body Manual, so I don't know how accurately Chevy held that emblem's position - that's if it's even shown in the manual. I assume they used a template for the original build, which I doubt anyone now has. Without that template, wouldn't any body shop need to get the emblem positions off an existing car? I don't know of any body shops around me (northern Virginia) that have expertise in restoring Chevelles.