Update:
Got tbe #8 cylinder to
respond to removal of the plug wire. In case anyone's interested, I
had relocated the PCV to a manifold vacuum source shared by the #8 runner -
which killed the fuel signal.
Also swapped intakes,
adjusted valves, replaced points, cap, rotor, coil, plugs, wires, vacuum
advance, and probably some things I'm forgetting. She runs significantly
better after repeated attempts at tuning, but still not quite right. Still
have some intermittent missing at idle and hesitation/bog (and the occasional
backfire thru carb) at aggressive acceleration. Closing the choke blade
part way eliminates the bog condition.
Oh, and there's this
noise under load that's driving me nuts, too. It's hard to describe - sort
of a whine that comes and goes as you take your foot on and off the gas. I
don't know where it's coming from, and as far as I can tell, it only happens
when the car is moving.
Some of the relvant
specs:
"Mild" 327 (I don't
have specifics on cam, pistons, etc.) w/ Goodwrench 350 heads
Edelbrock 750 CFM
Quadrajet (#1901) w/ .069 main jet
Edelbrock Performer RPM
(#7104)
Stock points
ignition
12* static + 8*
full-time vacuum advance = 20* initial advance
31* dwell
Splitfire SF2E plugs,
gapped to .035 (Note that this is not the heat range recommended by
Splitfire)
Compression readings
are ~140, 142, 145, 140, 150, 150, ~148, ~148 on numbers 1, 3, 5, 7,
2, 4, 6, 8, respectively
Steady vacuum at idle
except when missing / surging (variation of ~.5 inches)
I could use some help
here, gang. Running out of ideas.
Thanks,
Bill
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 9:46
AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] A little
help, please...
Thanks,
Don.
Well, let's
see. What do you want to know? I'm in Gilbert, AZ. I don't
have a lot of mechanical experience / background - I've done a lot of the
typical maintenance-type things, etc., but I still get intimidated by the
internals. I've got the fever though, and the only way I know to get
over these things is to do them, so I'm proceeding with caution.
:o] I'm learning a lot between this list and various websites,
ChevyTalk.com being my favorite. For a little light reading, check out
my post there at http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum64/HTML/008451.html
I tease my brother
about building a Honda Killer, but I'm really just after style that's fun
to drive. i.e., I'm not trying to build a race car here. I haven't
weighed the car, but I think that 350 HP / 400 ft lbs would be fun.
From what I've learned so far, that seems pretty do-able for a guy with my
experience and budget.
A little backgound on
my car, since you asked. I am the 3rd owner of a 1967 Malibu. It
was a Wyoming car for much of it's life and then spent some time in New Mexico
before landing here in AZ. She's got some rust, but at levels I felt
were acceptable for a 35 year old car. Trunk, fenders, passenger rocker
- you guys know the drill. None of it too bad, and I got a lot of
replacement sheet metal in the deal. The original owner butchered the
dash when he tried to install an AUDIOVOX cd player (Why, I oughtta...) and
the next guy THREW AWAY the original bench seat to install some bad
buckets. Otherwise, the interior is all original, and kind of beat
up.
The last guy
spent a lot of money on suspension components - new Hotchkis springs, PST poly
bushings, KYB shocks, and sway bars on front and back.
The original
Powerglide was tired and needed a rest, so it's in a box in my garage.
I've installed a performance-built 2004R in it's place, and am able to
grab second now, even with only 7 cylinders and questionable
tuning. I thought I'd leave the 3.08 limited slip there, as I'm driving
it daily (if I ever can get through emissions). I've got 4 new 235/60/14
Road Huggers on the old 14 x 7 Cragar SS wheels that were on the car when I
bought it. I'll probably go with 17s when I get ready to convert to
power disc fronts next year.
The original 327
block is still there, and was supposedly bored .030 over when it was rebuilt
about 30,000 miles ago. I found the head casting number, and it looks
like they came off a Goodwrench 350. Don't know what, if anything, was
done to them before they found their way onto my 327. I have no
idea what cam I'm dealing with, but I guess it's pretty mild. I've got a
new 750cfm Q-Jet on there now, and I'll be swapping the stock intake for a
Performer RPM here in the next few days. I've done a bunch of
miscellaneous things too - exhaust gaskets, thermostat, plugs,
etc.
Whew. Sorry you
asked, huh? :o] So, back to the problem.
The plug wires are
7.5mm Autolites that were on there when I got the car, and I have the receipt
for them and the cap - both relatively new. The plugs are new.
Points check out okay. I have 9.5 volts into the coil, so was going to
replace the coil last (I have one sitting on the bench waiting for me).
I guess I could replace the rotor while I'm at it... If it were a spark
issue though, you'd think I'd see it on more than one cylinder, right?
Again, unless it was a plug or wire. Or a bad terminal on the cap?
(reaching...)
The advice I'm
getting from the fellas at ChevyTalk is to check valve adjustment. Other
suggestions? Is a leakdown test in order?
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 4:25
AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] A little
help, please...
Hi ya Bill....
First things first. Tell us about
yourself & your car.
What size engine is it? Is it stock? If
not, what's been done to it?
What you describe could be a number of
things. If you've tested the compression & you're sure it is ok then
that leaves fuel & spark. If the valves, springs or cam are a problem it
will usually show up in a compression test. The cheapest &
simplest thing to do is install NEW plugs, plug wires, coil,
distributor cap, rotor & points if it has them. None of this is very
expensive & this will probably fix the problem. If it doesn't,
then you'll have to delve a little farther but at least you'll know your
ignition system is good.
Good luck & don't be shy about
asking questions of the list.
Don
> Hiya
list,
>
> So I'm kind of a beginning hot rodder. That is
to say, I just bought the
> car I've always wanted - a 67 Malibu
(okay, I would have liked to have an
> SS, but don't tell her that.
:o] ) but I don't know much about what I'm
> doing yet. Too bad
for me, because she's a little under the weather, and I
> need to make
her well.
>
> I've been lurking in the shadows on this list for
a while now, and my first
> post is to ask you folks for a little
help. Please be gentle - I told you,
> I'm learning.
:o]
>
> A long story real short: She runs a little rough,
esp at low RPMs, and I
> have an emissions problem with hydrocarbons
at idle. The whole car shakes a
> little bit. I looked at
several different things before I disconnected the
> wires from the
cap one at a time with the motor running. You really don't
>
notice much difference on #8 unless you also disconnect another
cylinder.
> You really have to strain to hear any difference - not
like the other
> cylinders. i.e., it fires, but not strong enough so
that you notice it
> unless the motor is really struggling. I
swapped plugs and plug wires with
> #6 cylinder and had the same
results, so I guess that brings me back to
> compression?
>
> Cranking compression test results were okay when I tested them
before, but
> I've never done a leakdown test. I don't have a
tester or a compressor (but
> I guess those are my next steps,
eh?)
>
> This is really not what I was hoping to find. What are
the best case / worst
> case scenarios you guys, and what's it gonna
cost me? Could it be something
> simple?
>
> I left
the details on my application out for brevity's sake, but I'm happy
>
to supply them if it helps.
>
> TIA,
>
> Bill
Bruyn
>
>
>
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