Well the ghost flames can be hard to see in the flessh so I bet it is tough to photograph.
I'm pretty familiar with the ladder bar setups. I had an adjustable one in my last tubbed drag car and liked it, but a couple of the guys who run 4 links have been trying to work on me. The main thing is it seems neither of them adjust them a whole lot which seems to make it no better then an adj. ladder bar setup.
The ford 9" is tweaked because one of my buddies owns a Super Charger firm. They also setup cars and he only uses D80's. I broke my last ford 9" (It was just a stock Ford 9" that was cut to fit with aftermarket gears and axles and not one of the high strength aftermarket housings), then of course the Mopar guy of the group has to throw in the D60. Hehee. It gets to be quite a debate with lovers of all makes.
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Pell
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 5:57 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: 69 Chevelle prostreet; was Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 CamaroProstreet car for sale.
Hey Mikey, thanks for the great comments!! I've really struggled with getting good pics of the ghosted Bowtie and flames. One of these days I'll get some good ones.
For more suspension pics, see here http://www.prostreetcar.com/finished_frame.html
I bought the rear clip from Art Morrison. I strongly recommend against them. The frame rails are far too narrow, but they are too pig-headed to learn why it's a problem. If you buy a rear clip, definately figure out how wide you want the rear frame rails....
The ladder bar setup is much simpler to work with over a 4 link. The 4 link is pretty much infinately adjustable, which is both its strength and its weakness. If you're not familar with these setups, start with a ladder bar suspension. It's much easier to tune, and more forgiving of mistakes.
As for the rear end, Stick with the GM 12 bolt, or maybe a Ford 9". The 12 bolt will hold up to plenty of HP. The 9" isn't really stronger unless you spend a bunch of money to make it stronger. The Dana's are a serious PIA to setup, and typically are more expensive.
I've most of the bugs worked out of the car, and have 600 or so miles on it now. No track time, but I get on it here and there on the street. The suspension seems to react quite well for not having the car scaled (just best-guessed on the ladder bar adjustments). I'm quite sure my tires are going to be the cars primary limitation (M/T Sportsmans are pretty hard).
Hopefully later this summer I'll get it to the track!
take care,
Capt Crunch wrote:
Michael... I just spent some time looking at your page and all I can say is SWEET! I bet those pics don't do your ghost flames and bowtie justice. Overall it look similar to what I want to do with my Chevelle. I couldn't really see much on your rear suspension setup. Are you running an adjustable ladder bar setup? Just wondering what you have beck there and which company you purchased it from. One of the "grill and swill" topics/debates with some of my racer friends has been adj. Ladder bar v.s. 4 link and Ford 9" v.s D60 v.s D80. Have you gotten a chance to get your car sorted out enough to get to the track or you still have some bugs to work out? Mikey ----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Pell
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 7:01 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] NC: 67 Camaro Prostreet car for sale.
Backhalved means to replace the back half of the frame with a narrowed rear
clip. When you add the larger tires, such as 18"-21" wide, the stock rear clip
won't allow the tires. Also, the rear suspension is generally changed to a
ladder bar setup or a 4 link setup. See some pics here http://www.prostreetcar.com/finished_frame.html
I have the ladder bar setup.
John Nasta wrote:
> Tubbed is when the rear wheelwells are cut out and replaced with much larger
> ones to accommodate bigger rear tires. Back-halved I'm not too sure about
> since I am not much into the custom or racing scenes.
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Also - what is the term "tubbed" and "backhalved"?
> See ya,
> Chad
>
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