|
Please send me that spread sheet if you don't mind. Great detail....keep
it up.
Kyle Dave Studly wrote: I did the conversion to 12" B-body brakes, using Hotchkis parts. (upper A-arms, springs (all 4), their pre-machined lower ball-joint, tie-rod sleeves, and the non-stock inner/out tie-rods.). I used a 1.25" sway bar from a 2nd-gen F-body that I bought on eBay. Yes, they really do fit. Spindles came from an '86 full-size Cadillac. I went to the parts store and ordered brake rotors from a '90 Camaro with HD brakes (the 1LE brakes in Chevy-speak, NAPA part# 85994). I ordered calipers, brake pads, grease seals, and inner/outer wheel bearings for an '86 Caprice (same as Cadillac). I also ordered a master cylinder for a '70 Chevelle with disc brakes. I bought new disc brake dust shields from my local Chevy dealer. GM Part #'s 344023, 344024. I used Wagner F98912 flexible brake hoses to hook up to the calipers.I cannot stress enough the HUGE improvement there is in braking. I swapped from manual drums (to manual discs) and the difference is night and day. Swapping from non-power to power shouldn't complicate things too much, but it wasn't a priority for me since I was used to non-power brakes. There is also a HUGE improvement in handling too, but it comes at the sacrifice of ride quality. I'd love to ride in a someone's car that did the brake swap, but kept stock springs.I have a complete parts list (including the prices I paid) in Excel format if anyone is interested in seeing what the total costs are. I did the swap in my garage, mostly by myself.1) Be prepared to replace all the front brake lines. The one going to the passenger front wheel might be a little difficult with the engine in. My engine was out when I did the conversion.2) The proportioning valve: some have said they didnt change it and it works fine. My life, as well as my passengers, are worth more than the $130 Master Power charges for a disc/drum proportioning valve and mounting bracket. I spent the extra money and don't regret it one bit. No, it doesn't look stock and I pretty much had to re-plumb all the front brakes and splice into the line going to the rears.3) Since you're taking the entire front suspension off, now is the time to replace the control arm bushings. If you are going to use Polyurethane bushings (I used Energy Suspension) GREASE them once, twice, and then a third time. If you are not liberal with the grease, they WILL squeak. Ask me how I know.4) Getting the springs in and out is the most difficult part of the job. As I mentioned, I replaced the stock springs with Hotchkis springs, which were notably shorter than the stock units, so re-assembly was easier for me. You'll need some sort of spring compressor to put it back together, but I dont know what kind. This is the part of the job where you definately want someone there helping you.5) The Camaro 1LE brake rotors come with metric studs. While I shudder at the thought of metric-size stuff on my 1970 Chevelle, it didnt seem worth the money having them re-drilled for American studs. I bought metric lug nuts for a couple dollars.5) This is not a cheap swap. I spent almost $1500 for parts doing this swap. At $500, the a-arms are the single biggest expense. All 4 springs were $270, and the rotors were about $140 for the pair. The rest is a lot of nickel and dime stuff, but it adds up. I live in Ohio, so my prices include local sales tax.If anyone has questions, feel free to ask here, or email me privately, [EMAIL PROTECTED]-Dave, [EMAIL PROTECTED] |
- [Chevelle-List] Disc Brake Help Kyle Bennett
- RE: [Chevelle-List] Disc Brake Help John Nasta
- RE: [Chevelle-List] Disc Brake Help Brad Waller
- Re: [Chevelle-List] Disc Brake Help Capt Crunch
- Re: [Chevelle-List] Disc Brake Help Rodney.
- RE: [Chevelle-List] Disc Brake Help Brad Waller
- RE: [Chevelle-List] Disc Brake Help -- brad @ wi... Dave Studly
- RE: [Chevelle-List] Disc Brake Help -- brad ... Brad Waller
- RE: [Chevelle-List] Disc Brake Help -- yes, i did th... Dave Studly
- Kyle Bennett

