If
you're interested in educating yourself on small-blocks (i assume you're
talking about a small-block!) get a copy of David Vizard's "How to Rebuild
Your Small Block Chevy." Most bookstores will carry it in the automotive
section. Put it in the bathroom and read it twice. There will be a
quiz next Monday.
I agree. There's
also one called "How to Hot Rod a Small Block". There are several books on the
market that explain the basics.
Seriously, if you want to know what makes the thing tick, it's a good
read. Our engines are not swiss watches -- you CAN understand it
all.
Again, I agree.
The old chevy engines just aren't that complicated. They're really quite
simple. The electronics/ignition & carburation or injection can get a
little complicated but the basic engine is all very simple. Have you ever seen
one of those plastic models of the "Visible V8 Engine"?
That's basically a
small block chevy. Buy one (about $30), put it together & you've basically
built a minature small block.
Also, one last thing to consider on your knocking noise -- the timing
chain. I've had a loose timing chain, twice, rapping against the block
and timing cover that sounded an awful lot like a rod knock. Diagnosing
with a stethoscope could be useful in this situation.
Someone else sent
a whole list of things that can cause a knock so I won't go there. A rod knock
will usually get worse just off of idle during acceleration &
deceleration. A main bearing usually is worse at a fast idle. Over time
any bearing will continue to get worse until it goes out
completely.
An easy way to
check if it's a bearing is to pull one plug wire off at a time while the
engine is running. "Usually" a rod or main will stop knocking when the bad
cylinder is removed because it's no longer pressuring the
piston.
Don