You might contact Comp Cams tech line and get a forth opinion. I went with their hydr roller cam and magnum roller rockers in my 427, and am very happy with it. They will float about 6500, which is OK. Tons of low end torque and power. 107 mph @ 13.65 on 225/14s. The cam is .634 lift and 286 duration. A thumper.
My only complaint is that the valve train has always been a little noisy. I have never solved that problem. I think it is somewhere in the roller lifter movement, not the rockers. It has not stopped me from driving on the street and racing on the strip once in a while. Larry Williams ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matthew Post" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 9:40 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] 396 help - cam choice? > Thanks John. You led me right into my next question....what to do with > it? I think I'm going to rebuild it as is. Hopefully, reusing the same > pistons and just hone and re-ring them. Maybe pocket port the heads. But > what kind of cam? Solid, hydraulic-roller, or solid-roller? I've talked > to 3 engine rebuilders that came recommended to me and they all had > different opinions. One said solid-roller would need new lifters every > 10,000 miles if street driven and that a hydraulic-roller doesn't benefit > enough to spend the extra $$$. Another said hydraulic-roller makes the > same power as solid, but is more reliable. > > I've read lots of stuff on the Chevelle Tech website, but it seems everyone > has a different opinion. What do you guys run and what's your experience? > > Oh yeah, this will be street driven almost entirely. I would like to make > 450-500hp. (Is that even possible with a 396?) The transmission will be a > 5 speed and I haven't picked a rearend gear yet. > > Thanks! > Matt > > At 08:31 PM 1/15/2004 -0500, you wrote: > >i pretty sure that the block cast# and the cast# on the heads are the > >one's used to identify codes > >all that other stuff like gm2 pass is just to let you know that was for > >car with reg deck which is what you want.. one of those are the date > >code # are the actually date of casting i think those one's are located > >very close to cast# if you take off your valve cover you will see cast#on > >head all 396 where closed chamber heads (which is good for low end tork) > >small port heads are useally the best for street on that moter.... to big > >of a port moter will not make tork untill high rpm...396 is one of those > >bigger is not alway's better when talking about heads...what are you > >trying to find out??? > >i also have a 1971 bb 402 with is factory 0.30 over 396 with steel > >crank..4 sale if you know anyone looking.... > >hop this helps a little (if your rebuilding on can do a lot better then > >stock very easy)still look's the same on the outside.... > >later john chevy's rule > > > > > >>From: Matthew Post <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >>Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >>To: The Chevelle Mailing List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >>Subject: [Chevelle-list] 396 decoding help > >>Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 09:34:05 -0800 > >> > >>Hi Guys, > >> > >>I visited the Mortec website and found some things out about my 396: > >> > >>Driver's side rear of the block - 3955272 - 1969 396 - 2 or 4 bolt > >>Heads - 3872702 - '65 or '66 - Oval - Closed chamber - 98cc > >> > >>I couldn't read the stamp at the front of the engine. There were other > >>numbers though. Are these date codes? > >> > >>Pass. side rear - 4 GM PASS C11 8? > >>Inside Bellhousing - F5 HIPER PASS (mortec says Hiper means nothing?) > >>Above Oil Filter - K HIPERF PASS 18 > >>Head - A316 GM2 PASS X > >> > >>Do these mean anything? Can you tell if the block is 2 or 4 bolt without > >>pulling the oil pan? > >> > >>Thanks! > >>Matt > >> > > > >_________________________________________________________________ > >Rethink your business approach for the new year with the helpful tips > >here. http://special.msn.com/bcentral/prep04.armx > > > > > > > > >
