Not Brad or Dave
But I found that the late 80's GM B-Body wagons almost always
had the 12" rotors. Mine came from a 1988 Caprice Estate Wagon. I
never found a set of 12"ers (if thats what you want) on a coupe.
Maybe too late for you, but someone else may benefit: Did you know
that www.npdlink.com has the GW set at a bit of a discount? I saved
$100. on the set with lower del-alum bushings.
On Sat, 2 Oct 2004 16:50:33 -0400, Graham Wooden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Thanks Dave and Brad for the replies ...
> I just ordered online the Hotchkis Upper control arms, so I am going to go
> with B-Body Spindles ... Any model/year to go after, or a range of years to
> look for?
>
> -Graham
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dave Studly
> Sent: Friday, October 01, 2004 10:17 AM
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Which way of lowering is better?
>
> When I re-did my suspension and brakes in 2001 on my '70 Chevelle, the total
> cost turned out to be around $1500, if I remember correctly. I converted
> from drum brakes to discs, using Hotchkis A-arms, Hotchkis springs (all 4
> corners), Hotchkis tie-rod sleeves, eBay'd a 1.25" F-body sway bar, and used
> GM 12" brakes. I got the spindles from the boneyard and bought the rest of
> the parts new at the parts store (rotors, calipers, pads, hoses, caliper
> bolts, etc), and new Energy Suspension poly-bushings.
>
> The handling improvement is quite dramatic. The Hotchkis springs also
> lowered the car a bit, at least 1, maybe 2 inches. I had a stock '72 El
> Camino at the time I did the swap and the differences between the stock
> setup and the Hotchkis are night & day. If you live in a place with a lot
> of rough roads, the stiff Hotchkis springs might get a little annoying. I
> *love* the handling of my car, but the rough ride is occasionally
> irritating. However, freeway on/off ramps have never been so fun!
>
> I don't know of anyone who has used lowering spindles, but I'd be interested
> in comparing the two, as the more compliant stock springs might be nicer if
> the car is mainly a cruiser. I like to push my car, so I'm willing to
> tolerate the stiff springs.
>
> -Dave
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brad Waller
> Sent: Friday, October 01, 2004 12:10 AM
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Which way of lowering is better?
>
> You can do the suspension piecemeal. I did the spindles first, then the A
> arms and springs a few years later, then the shocks and sway bar last. Cost
> is about the same if you get the 12" brake over the 11" F-body swap that I
> did (there was no 12" factory parts when I did mine), so you may as well go
> for the larger rotors. Or, you could go really big and use an aftermarket
> kit.
>
> I can be expensive, but if you can budget it out and make a plan, then it
> can be affordable.
>
> -Brad-
>
> On Sep 30, 2004, at 7:42 PM, Graham Wooden wrote:
>
> > Thanks Tim; I think those two systems would be great to have - to
> > achieve the updated ride and handling that I am looking for.
> > Now it's time to figure out how much $$$ I have to put towards this; I
> > also
> > been trying to figure out ultimately what brake system (kit or
> > individual
> > pieces) to use as well.
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >
> > -Graham
> >
> > On 9/30/04 9:00 PM, "[EMAIL PROTECTED]"
> > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> Graham,
> >>
> >> Personally, I would do the Global West/Hotchkis system, so that gives
> >> you the great ride, but do the drop spindles. It really doesnt effect
> >> the geometry of
> >> the suspension. I did the drop spindles when I did the disc
> >> brakes...although
> >> I only had that set up for about a 15 mile drive before I went and
> >> had the
> >> whole thing air bagged. So technically, the front of mine is dropped
> >> about 7-8
> >> inches haha. But I can adjust it to whatever I want. Take care-
> >>
> >> Tim
> >> 66' Chevelle
>
>
--
Rick Schaefer
