Mine is a 6 inch rod with KB hypereutectic pistone and
S/R torque big valve heads that were pocket ported. It
snaps when you punch it! This things I learned was to
buy the heads complete other than bare castings and
get a good machineist. Mine put it together with a
nitrided crank and the shortie pistons are in with
.001 bore clearance.. That is nominal with the high
silicon based pistons.
hope this helps.
mike f
texas
--- Gene's General Restoration Parts
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi,
> I have always heard that big valves really only
> help over 6000 RPM or so,
> if this is a street engine and the old valves are
> still servicable I would
> stick to them. Spend the money in other areas. A
> fast responding engine is
> better on the street.
>
> My 383 is running the early 90's vette aluminum
> heads with the stock valves
> and it runs great. Of course compression on the high
> end of 11:1 (keep that
> quench hieght tight!) helps along with six inch
> rods. The vette heads are
> nice because they will take a regular intake, and
> for my money a Torker 2
> and a dialed in Carter AFB is better than a dual
> plane any day.
>
> I am planning my next 388 (.060 over block) around
> 5.7 rods and vortec's
> which will be small valved with .100 longer stems
> for added lift capability.
> It won't be as built as the aluminum head engine, so
> if it puts out 400 HP I
> will be happy with it, dual plane and all...
>
> Just my 2 cents...
>
> Gene
>
>
>
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