On Mon, 11 Jul 2005, John Nasta wrote:
> For now I have a heavy lead going
> straight from the battery to a hidden switch, and a thinner lead from that
> switch to the starter. The key does have to be in the run position for it to
> start. I don't know the actual gauges of the wires, but I do know that with
> a thinner wire from the battery it wouldn't start (actually behaved pretty
> much like it does now when hot - wouldn't turn at all), and the thicker wire
> doesn't fit on the starter terminal, so it's obviously not meant for that
> heavy a gauge. I think it has something to do with those wires though. Maybe
> I need an even thicker wire off the battery and/or something a little
> heavier to the starter. I don't know much about the theory behind it, but it
> doesn't take very long to re-wire it and see what happens. Of course I'll
> see what the timing does to it first. I guess the next step would be to
> replace the ignition switch and see if I can use the wiring harness to power
> the starter like you're supposed to.
You didn't say (at least as far as I've read in this thread) whether the
solenoid clicks when the hot start problem occurs.
I had the same problem earlier this year. I checked everything except the
voltage to the solenoid (too arthritic to crawl around down there). When I
finally got someone to do this the solenoid was getting 7 volts. Too low
to activate it. The culprit was too small of a wire from the switch to the
solenoid. Evidently the result of some amateur rewiring some time in the
past.
I would doubt it is the timing unless you have a *bunch* of advance
cranked in.
--
Bob Holtzman
"A man is a man who will fight with a sword,
Or tackle Mount Everest in snow;
But the bravest of all owns a '34 Ford,
Who will try for six thousand in low!"
Roger Huntington
