Thanks Keith, the manual instructions worked like a charm.  A set of ramps got the bleeder screw the highest so it didn't have to be removed.  I owe you!!!  zieg72
----- Original Message -----
From: KW
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevy Truck question

Straight from the 1986 factory shop manual:
1. Fill the reservoir with new DOT 3 brake fluid to the level of the diaphragm.
 
2. Remove the secondary cylinder and hold it with the bleeder screw the highest.
 
3. Hold the clutch pedal down, open the bleeder screw to let air and fluid escape, and close the bleeder screw. Let the clutch pedal up.
 
4. Repeat step 3 until all air is out of the system.
 - Check and refill the reservoir as needed while bleeding so that air is not drawn into the system.
 
5. Install the secondary cylinder and refill the reservoir if needed.
 
One problem with that (off the top of my head). If you remove the secondary (slave) cylinder to bleed it, what will keep the slave cylinder rod and piston from launching across the garage when you depress the clutch pedal?
 
Also make sure that you check for any mechanical adjustments to either the slave cylinder or the master cylinder at the brake pedal. Several manufacturers have these adjustments and if they are off it will cause either a low pedal or a high pedal. Sometimes when replacing clutch master cylinders or slave cylinders, the rod that is included will be a different length than the factory piece (more of a one size fits several) so this would also lead to readjusting.YMMV
 
Keith
 
----- Original Message -----
From: Zieg72
Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 9:45 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Chevy Truck question

I can't seem to get all the air bled out of my hydraulic clutch slave cylinder on my 85 C20.  I have read all I could find available on the web about bleeding hydraulic clutches and thought I would ask the folks on this list.  My next step is a power bleeder but I don't want to spend the extra money if I don't have too.  Thanks in advance.

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