I liked the tool more before I saw the email. Telling you that it is designed for a max of 30 lb-ft of torque implies that they will break easily. They further go on to have only a 1 year warranty and they warn you that "signs of abuse" will void your warranty. Of course, they also say that "sockets internal hex exhibits signs of deformation if overloaded" furthers the impression that this is a weak product that will break and you will be accused of abuse so that they can void your warranty.
I'm sure that they think that they are protecting themselves, but at the price they charge they should go the extra mile and offer a no questions asked lifetime warranty. Since 99% of buyers will be legit, they only have to worry about a small fraction of "abusers". This works pretty well for Craftsman and it convinces a lot of people to buy, even if they never do abuse their tools. In fact, for the price and warranty, I'd look for some cheap tools to cut slots in and make my own for a few dollars. If they break, who cares. I can always make more. Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1 '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX > -----Original Message----- > From: Larry Shouse > Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 5:43 AM > To: The Chevelle Mailing List > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Cool tool > > Herb, > > This is what I got from them last night... > > Larry Shouse > > > February 2006 HeaderSockets Tech > Information > > Thank you for your interest in HeaderSockets. > > General: > > These are an extremely high quality American-made tool > series. They have been designed > for the sole purpose of removing spark-plugs in all exhaust side > applications. The tool series > > is not designed for deep well valve-cover and intake side > work. They are produced in-house on > our Haas CNC equipment. All HeaderSockets are made from 4130 > Aircraft Grade Chrome-Moly. They are black-oxide coated and laser marked. > > The tools come with a 1 year warranty from date of purchase. > > The slotted sockets are NOT designed for use with an impact and will NOT be > warrantied if physical signs of abuse are evident. The sockets internal hex > exhibits signs of deformation if overloaded. The sockets are designed for > 30 lbs/ft of torque. Most spark-plugs torque at 18 to 22 lbs/ft. > > NOTE: > > *HeaderSockets are designed for use in NORMAL spark-plug removal and > installation. They are NOT intended to remove seized spark-plugs. If a > spark-plug is seized, soak with a penetrant and try to loosen. If the > spark-plug will start to move, work it back and forth and apply more > penetrant. DO NOT BREAK THE CERAMIC!!! You could drop ceramic into the > inside of the engine! Then you won't be happy..Engine damage will result if > an engine is even turned over with ceramic inside the cylinder. If you > still can't get the spark-plug to move, then the exhaust must be removed to > gain access to get a full spark-plug socket or equivalent installed. After > the seized plug is removed, chase the threads and make sure a new spark-plug > will thread by hand. Use a small amount of thread lubricant to allow a good > torque and to protect threads from moisture wicking. We prefer to use a > SMALL amount of ARP moly, instead anti-seize, just enough to color the > threads. Keep the moly off the end of the spark-plug and electrode that > protrude into the engine and also off the spark-plug seat that mates to the > cylinder head as neither moly nor anti-seize is electrically > conductive.
