Dennis,
I'd be careful using an impact. If you go too far you're screwed. I made
my own tool to hold the pinion yoke and then used a breaker bar with a 3'
long piece of pipe. Gets the job done pronto. If you can weld, you can
easily make your own tool out of some mild steel from the hardware store.
I posted a pic of the tool here:
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/medium/DSC00466.JPG
It's made out of a piece of 3/16" x 1 1/2" x 3' mild steel. Works like a
charm.
You want to get rid of the play in the bearings first. It will seem like
the play is gone but if you turn the pinion 1/2 a turn both ways and then
immediately pull back and forth on the tool, you'll still feel a little
movement. Keep tightening the nut until that is all gone. Then start
measuring the rotating torque. Torque the nut in small increments. When
you get close it will only take a small turn on the nut. If you go too far,
get a new crush sleeve and start over.
Keith
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Chrush sleeve question.
Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2006 22:23:53 -0600 (MDT)
I'm changing the ring and pinion in my 68 SS.I'm going from 308 to 355
gears. I had to add 10 mill to get the right pinion depth. My old chrush
sleeve was 2,209 plus a 48 mill shim. The new chrush sleeve is 2,305. If
my math is correct,I have a 48 mill differance. I'm having a hard time
getting the crush on that new sleeve. I have a 1/2 drive I.R. impact but
it won't take it up. I also have a 3/4 I.R. impact. I'm thinking that if I
use the 3/4 drive. I might strip out the threads on the new shaft. Have
any of you guys ran into this problem? Is 48 mill to much to try and take
up and still maintain a pinion bearing preload of 20-30lbs? also these
are new bearings. Thanks for any help ahead of time.....Dennis
