A scattershield is the same as an SFI bellhousing (also known as a blow-proof bellhousing).

For "dialing it in", you must ensure that the transmission input shaft is straight into the back of the crankshaft, with a tolerance.
Picture putting a broomstick into a hole.  Now move the broomstick up, down.side to side, etc.   An input shaft is much the same.
Most of the time things will line up fairly well, but not within specified tolerences.   Blocks have core shift, bellhousings are varying quality, varying tolerances, etc, so it's quite common for the input shaft to NOT be lined up, and not be perpendicular to the block.
When this happens, the trans won't be as easy to install, shifting quality can be affected, clutch release can be affected, and worse of all, your input shaft bearing can prematurely wear out.

Check out tech tip #4 on this page for instructions: http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/techref.html

Yes, hopefully your installation shop will know about this and have done it.  It's a bit of pain to do, but well worth the effort.
And have them check that the bellhousing front face is square to the block.  My last install had a block with surface irregularities that misaligned the bellhousing.    That was tough to figure out.

Mike
--
  I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my
  life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -author unknown
  
  Ten Commandments -- The real reason that we can't have the Ten
  Commandments in a Courthouse is that you cannot post "Thou Shalt Not
  Steal", Thou Shalt Not Commit Adultery" and "Thou Shall Not Lie" in a building full
  of lawyers, judges and politicians! It creates a hostile work environment.

  Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
  TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com
  Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold),  ACES member #1377
  Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Thanks Mike,

Is a scatter shield the same as a SFI bellhousing or is it an additional piece of metal that is welded on top of the bellhousing?  

Also, What do you mean by "Dialing it in"?  I would hope the garage doing the install already knows this, but I am curious and would like to have some background before I ask them.

Thanks,
Steve


---- Michael Pell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
  
Absolutely yes, buy a scattershield.  Your feet are far more expensive 
than a scattershield.  I've seen pics of cars pretty much torn in 1/2 
from an exploding flywheel and/or clutch.  Not good, and definately not 
worth the risk.

Either a Lakewood or a McLeod.  In either case, you need to dial it in 
to ensure proper alignment.  The McLeod's tend be a bit better on 
alignment right out of the box.
And either will work with a GM TREMEC TKO-600.   It's designed to be a 
direct bolt in replacement for a Muncie (utilizing a 26 spline clutch 
disc).  Here's some swap details if you want/need more info:  
http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/3550_68-72abody.html

Mike

--
  I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my
  life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -author unknown
  
  Ten Commandments -- The real reason that we can't have the Ten
  Commandments in a Courthouse is that you cannot post "Thou Shalt Not
  Steal", Thou Shalt Not Commit Adultery" and "Thou Shall Not Lie" in a building full
  of lawyers, judges and politicians! It creates a hostile work environment.

  Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
  TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com
  Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold),  ACES member #1377
  Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6



[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

    
Happy Independence Day!

I was driving hame from work in the Chevelle a few months ago and noticed I didn't have any oil pressure.  I checked the gauges, dipstick, etc.  I noticed that my billet distributor was raised about 1/4 " from the intake and figured that it just wasn't spinning the oil pump shaft.

I flipped the cheesy "dress-up" distributor bracket over and bolted it back down (since it bent up during the event) and turned the engine over again.  It started right up.....with no oil pressure and no funny sounds.

I shut it back off and looked under the hood again.  The distributor was raised up again.  Well, I called my wife and had her bring my truck and the tow rope to get me.  I hooked up the mess and pulled it home.  On the bright side, the wife FINALLY got to drive the Chevelle.....at least steer. 

Many tests later I discovered that the splash shield in the stock oil pan broke loose from the spot welds and wrapped around my crank, dimpled 2 pistons, scratched up at least 1 cylinder wall, shaved off the bottom of the oil pump (that would explain things), and filled up the bottom end with little shiny metal shavings.

My mechanic/ mistake corrector said it would cost about $6000.00 to get the 454 back to working order and suggested I look at crate motors as a cheaper/better option.  My rebuild on the 454 was done in 1986.

I selected Basko Performance Engines to build a new motor for me as they have a good reputation and are close to me here in the Phoenix AZ area.  They are also putting a lot of work into my Edelbrock square-port closed-chamber heads.

They are in the process of building me a Merlin "Big M" 565 ci cast iron engine with a solid roller cam, steel crank and JE pistons.  I picked up a new Proform 950cfm carb and am anxious to get everything back together.

I am currently running a Muncie M-21 but have been looking at the Tremec TKO-600 5-speeds for a while and am contemplating a swap.  
My question of the day is:  Should I invest in a good blow-proof bell housing while everthing is apart, and if so, which brand is recommended?  Will the same bell housing fit both the Muncie and the Tremec?

Thanks for the help and have a safe holiday,
Steve





 

      

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