Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle will absolutely not idle - help

[Dale Mundle]

sounds like you have electronic ignition, not points, so when you put the 
new plugs in did you adjust to the proper gap.  Not the gap that is 
recommended but the wider gap that you have to use with electronic ignition. 
 You might also have a fuel filter problem or gas line problem, fuel pump 
after sitting for years that could happen?

From: "Thomas Ringlein" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List <Chevelle-list@chevelles.net>
To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" <Chevelle-list@chevelles.net>
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle will absolutely not idle - help
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 17:45:26 -0700

Okay - I got the car out of the garage today for its first long jaunt to 
the
nearest gas station, and I learned a few things.  First, some background.

I joined the Air Force in 1997, and shortly afterwards, the Chevelle was
parked at my Dad's place and driven on the rare occasion I had enough leave
and money to get back to central California and enough time and patience to
get the car out and drive it.  However, upon retaking possession of the car
about 4 months ago, it had not so much as been started in no less then 7
years.  Ouch.
Okay,  so now I am back in Fresno, California, and planning on a tear down
as soon as I find out if I got promoted or not (sometime in late Dec or
Jan), but I want the car running so I can take it to local shops for advice
on body work, etc..  I replaced the spark plugs, changed the oil and 
filter,
made sure there was air in the ancient tires, charged the battery (new
battery), topped off the tranny fluid, and started it up.  Car starts just
fine - but it will absolutely not idle.  I took the carb apart and replaced
all the gaskets since I had a leak or two.  While I was in there, I 
replaced
the power valve and checked the jets to make sure they were not clogged 
with
anything.  The carb was remarkably clean for a carb that was parked wet 8
years ago - it nearly looked like new.  I adjusted the floats by turning 
the
float bowl upside down and adjusting until level with the top/bottom of the
bowl.  I had my landlord take a look at my work because in his past life he
was an auto mechanic for about 15 years.  He gave the "thumbs up" on the
carb work, and I buttoned it up.
I took the car out to top off with some 91 octane "high test" gas, and it
ran okay - but would not idle or run particularly well at anything under
about 1300 RPM.  I have to lightly pump the gas pedal to keep it running
below 1300 RPM, and it will run okay from about 1300 until 1600 - where the
engine finally kicks in.  From about 800 to 1200, the car runs "rough" 
where
it feels like the car wants to quit, but I am keeping it going with pumping
the gas.  The temp raised slowly until about 180* where it leveled off.  
Oil
pressure held at about 60 pounds.  The distributor (Mallory COMP 9000) is
tight, so presumably it is where it was left 8 years ago when the car ran
fine (I don't have a timing light - disappeared).  The car did not start on
fire (this time).  I have been banging my head against the wall for a few
weeks, so I ask the help of all you smart folks to help me figure it out.
For some reason, I am thinking it may be the fuel pump (90% of presumed 
carb
problems originate at the pump, right?).
Some more details:

72 Chevelle, 350/TH350 combo
Holley Vac Sec 600 CFM carb (Model 1860, I believe)
I have not replaced the fuel filters yet - perhaps tomorrow
I have one plug wire (#5 cylinder) that may or may not be bad.  The 90* 
boot
burned through many years ago, and I rigged it with spare parts to make it
into a straight wire to get around the header (Hooker comp series, full
length - circa 1990).  It still has a very small spot where there is no
rubber on the wire where it attaches to the plug, but it always worked just
fine before.  I know - I was in high school and spent all my money dating
girls and rigged the car to keep it running.  Dumb kid.

What do you think?  Is anyone still reading?

TJR
Clovis, California