Dan, The rods are approx. 1" different in length. If you have a short rod, less
than an inch in length your hole depth in the M/C should be the same. The only
problem comes if your M/C has the deep hole, more than an inch and the booster
the short. Always bench bleed the M/C. You need to be sure you fully stroke the
M/C until you get no more air. The M/C when mounted does not get fully stroked
and herein lies the problem trying to bleed it mounted. Get the little kit at
Auto Zone for M/C bleeding. Has threaded nipples and clear tubes. That way you
can see the air is gone.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Daniel Solomon
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 3:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
Mike,
How will I know if the rod and the M/C match?
I think I will try bench bleeding the M/C tonight. The entire system was
installed dry so it sounds like this has to be done no matter what.
Thanks, Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Holleman
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
A couple of questions. There are two types of masters. One for the long
push rod and one for the short. If your booster has the short rod and your M/C
is a long style you are not stroking the M/C. Also, did you bench bleed the
M/C? This is necessary to get good pedal. One more, there should be two
different mounting locations(holes) in the brake pedal arm for the clevis to
attach to. The upper is for manual brakes and the lower for power.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Daniel Solomon
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 1:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
I didn't realize that there was a different master cylinder for power
brakes. I bought the one I have on the car before I thought about adding the
power assist.
Sounds like its worth a try. Think I have a original 70 master cylinder
in the shed. Maybe I will try my hand at a rebuild.
Thanks, Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: Brad Waller
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
My first thought was that the Master Cylinder was bad. Even though it
is new, it could be. Or maybe you need to adjust the plunger/pedal? It has
been way too long for me, but I had the opposite problem of the brakes applying
themselves after a while until the wheels locked. That was from the
adjustement bein off the other direction. Too tight and the brakes are always
on! Maybe too loose and you get lots of travel and no pressure.
Is the master the right one for the other parts? You say you might put
the booster back on the firewall, so does this mean the master is a non-power
master? I'm not sure what would happen if you had a power master with no
booster, but I think it would be a problem to add a booster to a manual master
cylinder. If things are mismatched here, maybe that is why you get no power
from your braking?
Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Daniel
Solomon
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:52 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking
Picked up my 70 Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it
for its maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't stop. I
have absolutely NO pedal. Its not spongy but way to much pedal travel.
Hopefully someone out there can guide me to a solution. Here is what i am
running...
4 Wheel Drum Brakes - All pads and hardware are brand new
4 New Brake Cylinders
New Drum Brake Master Cylinder
Used GM Power Booster
Original Proportioning Valve
All New Lines
Silicone Brake Fluid
I adjusted all of the brakes but it did not help. Bled them again but
did not find any air in the lines. Wondering if I should ditch the booster and
put the master cylinder back on the firewall as it was before. It is the only
thing that I changed in the setup.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Now that I have it done I want
to drive!
Thanks, Dan
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