Sounds like you are saying that at the lower speeds current from the
resistor will be fed back into the orange wire thru the relay. I
wasn't thinking about checking that but I do want to see if the purple
lead is hot at the relay and at the motor w/ the key on and fan at one
of the lower speeds.
BTW I did remove the entire fender & inner fender. In the long run I
think that was the best thing to do. I did not remove the hood. I was
able to remove one hinge and shove a rag under the back corner and use
a broom handle to hold up the front center. I think it was a bit of a
sight, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do.
Hint: open the door early and leave it open.
At least the heater core is in so I will have *some* heat no matter
what but hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to figure out what's up w/
the blower.
John
Quoting Rick Schaefer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
"
From what you're saying, even if that hot lead off of the horn relay
is not hooked up, the blower should still work on the lower speeds,
right? Right now it is not hooked up."
From what I believe that is correct. I was out looking at my elky a
bit ago and it appears that the wire from the fuse holder goes into the wire
bundle/connector at the heater box resistor & then joins with the wire going
to the motor.
IF this is a correct ASSUMPTION, with the key ON and the blower switch
in any run position (except HI) AND the hot lead disconnected at the horn
relay you should read the voltage that is coming from the switch & thru the
resistors and then to the motor when you put a meter on the wire which is
disconnected from the horn relay.
This should check the entire circuit from the interior fuse panel, thru the
switch & then thru the resistor. With the blower speed set to Lo you will
have a few volts (guessing 6-8), on Med the voltage should rise a bit
(8-10???) . Thes are just guestimates but the important thing is that you
have some voltage at Lo and slightly more at medium.
AND - did you remove the entire fender??? What does it take to do that on
the streets of NYC???
