Only one thing I would recommend different. Don't pump the pedal. Crack the 
bleeder, have the helper push the pedal to the floor and hold it, close the 
bleeder. Repeat until you see no more air bubbles. From the Baer brake tech 
sheet, " it's not a contest to see how far you can shoot fluid across the shop 
floor." Plus if the master cylinder was dry, don't forget to bench bleed it 
first. 
Mike
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: mike f 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 8:39 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] brake bleeding


  Steve, I don't think the process is any different from bleeding disc/disc 
systems. To start, I am assumming that the master cylinder is all good and 
filled. Then start with someone in the car and you and a can of brake fluid at 
the right rear drum. Have the person punp it up and hold it. Then you crack the 
bleed screw then close it. repeat over and over again going from the furthest 
point to the the nearest. Never let the fluid go empty in the master cylinder. 

  In a coffee can with brake fluid, I also use a tube that is out on the bleed 
screw to help avoid sucking air back in . 

  I have never had a booster go bad. 

  hope this helps
  mike


  ----- Original Message ----
  From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Sent: Saturday, December 1, 2007 10:12:58 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] brake bleeding

  Hi guys was wondering about the correct way to bleed the disc/drum power 
brake system on a 70 chevelle? I think i read some where that you need to hold 
open the prop valve while bleeding (?) does the booster require vacumn during 
bleeding? is there a way to tell if the booster is bad? if the master is bad? 
Thanks  steve




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