Losing power sounds like it is starving for fuel. Have you changed the fuel
filter? A dirty air cleaner will do the same thing.

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Eduardo (Eddie)
Gamino
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 6:57 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] QUESTION: about Lifters...

Well, I have a 350 transmission, 12 bolt 3.42 gears rear end, and front disc
brakes.  Another thing I am having problems with the car is that it tends to
lose power at one point and then the car turns off and It starts up right
away and then feels like it loses power again.  Is it cause I'm losing
vacuum like you said?  I don't know.  Can I see and feel the cam's lobes if
there damaged?  It seems like I will need to just buy a whole kit with
everything together to be sure and more accurate.

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dale <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] QUESTION: about Lifters...
> Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 18:29:05 -0500
> 
> 
> I would never replace one without the other myself since each lifter and
cam
> lobe become 'wear mated' to each other.
> 
> You should always use the appropriate lifter type for the camshaft.  That
> is, you shouldn't run flat tappet solid or roller lifters on a cam
designed
> for flat tappet hydraulic lifters.  You don't necessarily have to use the
> same cam manufacturer's lifters with their cam but regardless of what type
> lifter it's made for (solid or hydraulic flat tappet, or solid or
hydraulic
> roller) you need to use the correct type lifter for the camshaft.  Be
aware
> many cam manufacturers may void any warranty on their camshaft if you use
> another manufacturer's lifters.
> 
> A 'high performance' cam is kinda like the old '3/4 race' cam terminology.
> 'High performance' compared to what?  A 'high performance' 283/327 cam may
> be a very mild cam for a 350.  Since it's mainly a street car, regardless
of
> the manufacturer you go with, I'd stick with their recommendation for an
> application and maybe even the lower end of multiple selections.  Look at
> your car's weight, transmission & rear end gear type/ratio, and where you
do
> most of your driving (RPM range).  If you have power brakes, engine vacuum
> is also another thing to take into consideration.  Watch out for 'high
> performance' cams that result in a loss of engine vacuum, hence vacuum for
> power brakes.
> 
> It's easy to get carried away and 'over cam' your engine due to enthusiasm
> and costs being about the same.
> 
> Dale McIntosh
> ChevelleCD.com
> ChevelleStuff.com
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:chevelle-list-
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Eduardo (Eddie) Gamino
> > Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2008 5:53 PM
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: [Chevelle-list] QUESTION: about Lifters...
> >
> > Hey guys I need your help.  I am in the process of replacing my existing
> > lifters because there is a bad clicking noise, which doesn't go away.
My
> > brother in law had re-tightened the rockers, but the clicking doesn't go
> > away.  So he suggested that there might be a bad lifter and for me to
buy
> > new lifters especially to buy the roller lifters.  I bought my 1970
> > chevelle 350 about 4 years ago and I don't really know of what
> > modifications were done in the engine.  For one thing I know there is a
> > high performance cam, with HEI ignition, headers dual exhaust, holly
carb.
> > My car is for street use only, no track.
> >
> > Do I need to match the lifters to my cam?  If I don't need to, What type
> > of lifters should I buy?  What brand is best to get?  Also, I read in a
> > forum from a website that you can't install new lifters with a used cam
> > because you will do more damage, Is this true?  If true, then do I need
to
> > buy a new cam with new lifters altogether?  thanks
> > -Eddie
> >
> > --
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> >
> >

>


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