I don't expect that any 20-30 HP inboard gas or diesel engine in warm enough for sailing conditions would require significant cranking amps to start. Is it high enough and long enough duration to damage a deep cycle battery?
I think the glow plug probably draws more current than the starter but still not that much for that long in my opinion. And the deep cycle provides more reserve power than the starting battery. I have had no issues to report from starting my Universal M4-30 diesel from a Group 27 deep cycle over the 5 or so years since I got new batteries for Alianna and I am comforted to have the extra amp hours it can deliver over a normal car battery just in case I need it. Dwight Veinot C&C 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Russo Sent: August 24, 2012 3:11 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Setup Danny, I am also docked without power and would offer the following. Deep cycle batteries don't like big draws to start engines but can take deep discharges over time. They also take a longer time to charge and it sounds like you have the right regulator to produce a shaped charge which is heavy to start and then tapers off. Starting batteries are designed to produce the large initial draw for starting and then are quickly recharged just like a car battery. They are essentially car batteries and don't like long or deep discharges. I have 2 parallel Trojan 135AH each Deep Cycle house batteries connected to my #2 Position on my main battery switch. I have a West Marine starting Battery Connected to Position #1 on the same switch. I Start on 1, Switch to All while running the motor and then switch to 2 with the motor off while sailing or overnighting This is the simplest and avoids a lot of debate re draw and voltage drop of an automatic battery switch or Isolator, but you do have to remember to be in the correct switch position and to definitely avoid switching to off while the motor is running to avoid potential spiking at the alternator output. I do have refrigeration driven direct from the house batteries which I initially supplement with frozen water bottles that I drink towards the end of a cruise. I have a dual battery monitor and rarely exceed 60 AH overnighting at anchor or mooring with the refrigerator running continuously ( ie cycling to maintain temperature) My regulator is set to max out at 50 Amps and I also have a 75Amp Balmar alternator . I do also have a small Solar Panel trickle charger which operates about .3 Amperes on a good day without a solar regulator. This could definitely be bigger. I hope this is helpful. Have a good cruise in Buzzards Bay. We just returned from Cuttyhunk and found it really enjoyable and untouched by tourism. John C&C 32 Arpeggio Norwalk, Ct ----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of [email protected] Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 9:23 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Stus-List Battery Setup Okay, I'm out on the mooring and the only way of charging my batteries right now is the engine. I currently only have a single battery installed but, I want to add 2 more. The current battery I got last year, brand new and it has seen little use. It is a deep cycle marine battery. I was thinking to get another deep cycle marine battery and have a pair for house power and have another for engine starting. I have a Balmar MaxCharge MC-612 and a Balmar 75 amp alternator and a off-1-both-2 battery switch (pretty simple, right?) I have no AC system, I have no refrigeration or air conditioning or hot water or potable water pumps or pressurized potable water. Just old fashioned light and a couple of cigarette lighter type power outlets. My questions are; 1. do I need a cranking battery for starting with an atomic 4? This single deep cycle I have now seems to be doing the job fine. 2. without a separator, the routine would be, switch to starting battery, start engine, switch to both while running the engine, then switch to house (or off when sailing if no power is needed) when the engine is cut? 3. I think I can get away without the separator for the rest of this season anyway, it is really a convenience, right? Not having to manually switch over to the battery I need. 4. There should be no problem using the A4 engine to charge the batteries if need be, right? I assume thats the reason for the high end alternator and multi-stage marine regulator... I would love to hear all insights, suggestions and comments. We're going cruising to the Buzzards Bay islands for a week and I'm trying to make sure we don't run out of light and cell phone charging during our week in the boat. I'm thinking I'll get some battery operated LED lights as well. I also have these little power pack for phone charging which will also help conserve battery power. I'm just not sure what to expect. Also, I have a little electric trolling motor for the dinghy and picked up a tractor battery to run that. Any thoughts as to whether I can expect to get to shore and back a few times on that? I was just trying to keep the power pack lighter than a full sized deep cell. I do have a gas 4hp engine but it needs work and I don;t have the time to mess with it. Thanks, Danny Lolita 1973 Viking 33 Westport Point, MA _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com [email protected] _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com [email protected] ----- No virus found in this message. 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