Don't know about the OEM hatch for your 29, but I have the following Bowmar Seabreeze hatch for sale: $350.00 Brand New never installed Bowmar Seabreeze Deck Hatch worth double asking! extruded anodized aluminum frame, smoked acylic lens Cutout 19 7/8" X 19 7/8" Flange OD 22" X 22" Spigot 15/16 (extends into deck) Lid OD 23 1/12" X 23 1/2" X 2 1/2" high Ventilates even when closed, locking levers, support struts.
I was going to install it in my old San Juan 28, it was exactly the right size for it, but never got around to it before I got 2'itis and bought my C&C 33. Mike Cullen Nanaimo BC 250 756-0747 ----- Original Message ----- From: [email protected] To: [email protected] Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 7:33:23 PM Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 85, Issue 123 Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to [email protected] To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [email protected] You can reach the person managing the list at [email protected] When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." Today's Topics: 1. PHRF ratings - FS versus NFS (Bob Hickson) 2. Re: PHRF ratings - FS versus NFS (Rich Knowles) 3. forward hatch 29-2 (Mike Cain) 4. Re: forward hatch 29-2 (Joel Aronson) 5. Re: forward hatch 29-2 (Graham Collins) 6. Re: tips (jtsails) 7. Re: PHRF ratings - Spin vs non-spin (jtsails) 8. Re: PHRF ratings - Spin vs non-spin (Gary Nylander) 9. Re: PHRF ratings - Spin vs non-spin (jtsails) 10. Re: forward hatch 29-2 (Paul Fountain) 11. Re: forward hatch 29-2 (Jim Watts) 12. Re: tips (David Knecht) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 17:23:43 -0500 From: "Bob Hickson" <[email protected]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Stus-List PHRF ratings - FS versus NFS Message-ID: <00fd01ce1602$44d1f840$ce75e8c0$@com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" PHRF-LO (Lake Ontario) has done a study of Flying and Non flying ratings and the spread between the two is adjusted for each type of boat. PHRF-LO has made a lot of changes to try to make the completion fair ... for instance in 2012 the add on for a fixed 2 bladed prop out of aperture was adjusted from +3 to +12. The PHRF-LO Handicappers Manual is available online to anyone that is interested http://www.phrf-lo.org/index.php?option=com_content <http://www.phrf-lo.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=bl og&id=88&Itemid=186> &view=category&layout=blog&id=88&Itemid=186 Part 2 of the manual includes the adjustment factors that are used. Best regards, Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA C&C 29-2 Flying Colours Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club Pickering, ON (416) 919-2297 <mailto:[email protected]> [email protected] ~~~~ __/) ~~~~ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20130228/026a8ba7/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 18:30:25 -0400 From: Rich Knowles <[email protected]> To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF ratings - FS versus NFS Message-ID: <[email protected]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" It's interesting to contemplate the notion of fairness in a competition replete with random inequalities and more inconsistencies than constants. Cruising sounds a lot more rewarding and less stressful than handicap racing these days. At least for an old duffer:) Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-02-28, at 18:23, "Bob Hickson" <[email protected]> wrote: PHRF-LO (Lake Ontario) has done a study of Flying and Non flying ratings and the spread between the two is adjusted for each type of boat. PHRF-LO has made a lot of changes to try to make the completion fair ... for instance in 2012 the add on for a fixed 2 bladed prop out of aperture was adjusted from +3 to +12. The PHRF-LO Handicappers Manual is available online to anyone that is interested http://www.phrf-lo.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=88&Itemid=186 Part 2 of the manual includes the adjustment factors that are used. Best regards, Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA C&C 29-2 Flying Colours Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club Pickering, ON (416) 919-2297 [email protected] ~~~~ __/) ~~~~ _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com [email protected] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20130228/5ccac869/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 14:32:03 -0800 From: Mike Cain <[email protected]> To: C&C <[email protected]> Subject: Stus-List forward hatch 29-2 Message-ID: <[email protected]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi Listers, Does anyone have the name, rank for a replacement forward hatch on a 29 MK2 circa '84? ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 17:40:26 -0500 From: Joel Aronson <[email protected]> To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Stus-List forward hatch 29-2 Message-ID: <-7748446346227283588@unknownmsgid> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Atkins Hoyle Joel Aronson On Feb 28, 2013, at 5:32 PM, Mike Cain <[email protected]> wrote: > Hi Listers, > > Does anyone have the name, rank for a replacement forward hatch on a 29 MK2 > circa '84? > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected] ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 18:44:48 -0400 From: Graham Collins <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Stus-List forward hatch 29-2 Message-ID: <[email protected]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format=flowed Nope, but I would bet money it is from Atkins and Hoyle as they provided hatches for many C&Cs. Measure it and check their web site... Graham Collins Secret Plans C&C 35-III #11 On 2013-02-28 6:32 PM, Mike Cain wrote: > Hi Listers, > > Does anyone have the name, rank for a replacement forward hatch on a 29 MK2 > circa '84? > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected] > > ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 18:40:44 -0500 From: "jtsails" <[email protected]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Stus-List tips Message-ID: <4E91F213D933401AB4A393DB992E9A9C@JamesLaptop> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original In my case, my final decision came down to two C&C 38's. Boat 1 was in incredible condition but was equipped exactly as it came off the yard in 1976, no upgrades, no extras, and basically no sails. Boat 2 was equipped to head out to the Caribbean for a couple of years of cruising, instruments, water makers, wind generators, etc.... I decided to buy boat 1 for about 10 g's less because I didn't want to maintain a bunch of equipment that I would not be using for many years. At some point, I have a strong desire to be like Wally and pack everything onto the boat and head south for an extended journey but that is too far down the road for me to justify the work of trying to keep all of that stuff working. In 10 years or so, I'll either spend the money to upfit my current boat or I'll go shopping for a new boat, who knows what the market will be at that time. James Delaney C&C 38 mk II Oriental, NC ----- Original Message ----- From: <[email protected]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 10:04 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List tips >I guess the only downside to buying one already equipped is the workmanship >that went in to equip it. > > If it was all just hacked it then it may be more trouble and more work to > clean up than having to install it right the first time. > > I don't know how many times I've said "what the F?#% was this guy thinking > about?" when finding the PO's "upgrade" installations. One of them cost > me my steering in 18 knots of wind and a 3 foot chop and a 2-day towboat > us tow home. > > Just sayin' > > Danny > Lolita > 1973 Viking 33 > Westport Point, MA > > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Colin Kilgour <[email protected]> > To: [email protected], [email protected] > Subject: Re: Stus-List tips > Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 18:38:39 -0500 > > Wally's email reminds me of one more important tip I shared recently. > > All the tips so far are about buying a particular boat. Before doing > that, I'd focus on find the nicest, most well equipped boat you can > afford, and buying that one (using all the advice provided so far). > > Outfitting/re-fitting a boat is EXPENSIVE and time consuming (this is > the Wally part). But if you buy a boat that's already outfitted, > you'll save a ton of money. > > My $0.02 > > Colin > > > On 2/27/13, Wally Bryant <[email protected]> wrote: >> Tom wrote: >> > One last thing...listen to your heart... >> > if she's your boat, she'll speak to you. >> >> Colin wrote: >> > Or, if the only concern is the engine, >> > run it while the boat's still on the hard... >> > Which is probably what I would do. >> >> - - - >> >> Well, I was going to spend a great deal of time expounding on this topic. >> >> However, being drunk before breakfast (oh shucks is it noon already) >> I'll let the above quotes stand as truth. >> >> At the moment I'm on the hook in a moderately protected anchorage with >> the breeze howling through the rig. >> For four days. >> >> I call it a breeze because I know what wind is. >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> [email protected] >> > > -- > Sent from my mobile device > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected] > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected] ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 18:52:49 -0500 From: "jtsails" <[email protected]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF ratings - Spin vs non-spin Message-ID: <5D0D9110AF5046EF80FF655395343C2F@JamesLaptop> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" As a competitor who is hopefully going to be entered in the event that you are talking about..... I would suggest that you pick a number, 12 or 15(it doesn't really matter) and go with it. People who have the crew and equipment to fly a spin are going to fly it and people who don't, won't. Make them feel like there is some equity and they will come. As for me, If I can assemble a crew that can fly a chute in the predicted conditions, I'll be signing up as a spin boat. It will make very little difference to me if the adjustments give me an advantage or not, that's just cover for the trash talking at the post race party!!!! James Delaney C&C 38 MK II Oriental, NC ----- Original Message ----- From: Tim Goodyear To: [email protected] Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 12:24 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF ratings - Spin vs non-spin I would lend my support to the +15 seconds to their spinnaker rating for non-spinnaker boats (unless an allowance was already given for asym only). The PHRFNE standard is +12 seconds, but it is not usually enough on windward / leeward courses. I'd think +15 would be good for you considering the distance race format. We had a Wednesday night fleet in Boston where you could check in as spin / non-spin depending on your crew for any given week. It all worked out OK with the PHRFNE +12, but generally the spinnaker boats won. I don't want to offend anyone, but boats sailing with spinnaker were more experienced, better prepared and better handled than those without, so I think the right performance won... Our fleet varied from Farr 40 with professional crew to J/22's. Tim Mojito C&C 35-3 (currently waiting for an insurance estimate for a new pedestal, stern rail, instrument pod...) Branford, CT On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 9:03 AM, <[email protected]> wrote: As a PHRF racer, I realize that assigning a single rating for a boat sailing in various conditions of wind, waves, etc. is a very poor substitute for a more complicated and more expensive solution such as IRC, etc. etc. Adding modifications to this single number to account for sail configurations such as spin or non-spin is IMHO similar to adding lipstick to a pig. However, for overall winner determinations, a +15 seconds per mile adjustment to the rating when sailing non-spin has been used in some local distance races in order to award a winner. This seems to work reasonably for our club racing--after all this is club racing and our PHRF certificate costs all of ~ $20 per year! However, I have also raced in events where a combined trophy was awarded where there were spin, non-spin and cruiser fleets. In these events, sometimes the overall award was given to the winner of the most competitive class. IIRC this class was defined as the class in the fleet whose corrected times were the closest or with the smallest spread. Presumably this means that the first boat in this class had to work very hard to stay there. This may not work in your case but it is another way to combine the fleets--whether it is less arbitrary than a single number adjustment is another matter. FWIW, Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36XL/kcb [email protected] -----Original Message----- From: Rick Brass <[email protected]> To: cnc-list <[email protected]> Sent: Thu, Feb 28, 2013 1:46 am Subject: Stus-List PHRF ratings - Spin vs non-spin I help out with a local charity regatta called Pirates on the Pungo. http://www.piratesonpungo.org We are planning to do a couple of special trophies this year, one of which will go to the C&C sailboat that finishes first in the long pursuit race on the first day of sailing. While we plan to have both spin and non-spin classes for the PHRF boats in the regatta (with sub classes to keep the competition fair for all size boats), we want the special awards to span both spin and non-spin. NCPHRF, unlike some other regional PHRF groups, does not grant different spin and non-spin ratings. And the PHRF base ratings that we use for a lot of the casual sailors presume a spinnaker. So we?re thinking about creating an adjusted ?NON-SPIN? rating for the boats in the special trophy groups that will let them compete relatively fairly with the spin boats in the same special group. I?ve been told that one of the clubs in Oriental, NC adds an arbitrary 11 seconds to the NCPHRF spin rating to get a ?non-spin? rating ? regardless of the size or type of boat. That doesn?t sound like it would be fair to the smaller boats like the 24, 25, or 27, and it might be generous for the larger boats like my own 38 or Charlie Nelson?s 36XL. During the past couple of weeks there was some discussion of how various clubs and local groups calculate a ?non-spin? rating that lets all boats race in one class. I seem to recall one message that indicated 10% or 15% of the normal rating was added for a boat racing non-spin. But I think there were other methods, too. So the question for the wisdom of the list is this: What is a fair way to adjust the normal PHRF rating (which presumes a spinnaker) for a boat that is racing non-spin? Thanks for your input. Rick Brass Washington, NC _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com [email protected] _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com [email protected] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com [email protected] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20130228/5a59b5ce/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 19:01:37 -0500 From: "Gary Nylander" <[email protected]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF ratings - Spin vs non-spin Message-ID: <0E4B536A684342238F696A4E9F69BCCE@GaryPC> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" James, that is what we have discovered in out Wednesday and Saturday series. Those who have the crew can take advantage of the increased performance of the spinnaker and the rest do what they can. Once in a while, particularly on our 30, we (even though we have the crew) will opt out of the spinnaker if there is some wind to play with. First, to reduce the drama, second to realize that on a broad reach or downwind situation we will be going near hull speed with our huge genoa (a 30-1 has a 13.5 J measurement, so the foot of the genoa is 18 or so feet!) poled out, so trying to get another half knot on a short course is just too much trouble - it interferes with the snackticion.... But, as we race in mostly light conditions, we (assuming more than 3 people) fly that thing. Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: jtsails To: [email protected] Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 6:52 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF ratings - Spin vs non-spin As a competitor who is hopefully going to be entered in the event that you are talking about..... I would suggest that you pick a number, 12 or 15(it doesn't really matter) and go with it. People who have the crew and equipment to fly a spin are going to fly it and people who don't, won't. Make them feel like there is some equity and they will come. As for me, If I can assemble a crew that can fly a chute in the predicted conditions, I'll be signing up as a spin boat. It will make very little difference to me if the adjustments give me an advantage or not, that's just cover for the trash talking at the post race party!!!! James Delaney C&C 38 MK II Oriental, NC ----- Original Message ----- From: Tim Goodyear To: [email protected] Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 12:24 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF ratings - Spin vs non-spin I would lend my support to the +15 seconds to their spinnaker rating for non-spinnaker boats (unless an allowance was already given for asym only). The PHRFNE standard is +12 seconds, but it is not usually enough on windward / leeward courses. I'd think +15 would be good for you considering the distance race format. We had a Wednesday night fleet in Boston where you could check in as spin / non-spin depending on your crew for any given week. It all worked out OK with the PHRFNE +12, but generally the spinnaker boats won. I don't want to offend anyone, but boats sailing with spinnaker were more experienced, better prepared and better handled than those without, so I think the right performance won... Our fleet varied from Farr 40 with professional crew to J/22's. Tim Mojito C&C 35-3 (currently waiting for an insurance estimate for a new pedestal, stern rail, instrument pod...) Branford, CT On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 9:03 AM, <[email protected]> wrote: As a PHRF racer, I realize that assigning a single rating for a boat sailing in various conditions of wind, waves, etc. is a very poor substitute for a more complicated and more expensive solution such as IRC, etc. etc. Adding modifications to this single number to account for sail configurations such as spin or non-spin is IMHO similar to adding lipstick to a pig. However, for overall winner determinations, a +15 seconds per mile adjustment to the rating when sailing non-spin has been used in some local distance races in order to award a winner. This seems to work reasonably for our club racing--after all this is club racing and our PHRF certificate costs all of ~ $20 per year! However, I have also raced in events where a combined trophy was awarded where there were spin, non-spin and cruiser fleets. In these events, sometimes the overall award was given to the winner of the most competitive class. IIRC this class was defined as the class in the fleet whose corrected times were the closest or with the smallest spread. Presumably this means that the first boat in this class had to work very hard to stay there. This may not work in your case but it is another way to combine the fleets--whether it is less arbitrary than a single number adjustment is another matter. FWIW, Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36XL/kcb [email protected] -----Original Message----- From: Rick Brass <[email protected]> To: cnc-list <[email protected]> Sent: Thu, Feb 28, 2013 1:46 am Subject: Stus-List PHRF ratings - Spin vs non-spin I help out with a local charity regatta called Pirates on the Pungo. http://www.piratesonpungo.org We are planning to do a couple of special trophies this year, one of which will go to the C&C sailboat that finishes first in the long pursuit race on the first day of sailing. While we plan to have both spin and non-spin classes for the PHRF boats in the regatta (with sub classes to keep the competition fair for all size boats), we want the special awards to span both spin and non-spin. NCPHRF, unlike some other regional PHRF groups, does not grant different spin and non-spin ratings. And the PHRF base ratings that we use for a lot of the casual sailors presume a spinnaker. So we?re thinking about creating an adjusted ?NON-SPIN? rating for the boats in the special trophy groups that will let them compete relatively fairly with the spin boats in the same special group. I?ve been told that one of the clubs in Oriental, NC adds an arbitrary 11 seconds to the NCPHRF spin rating to get a ?non-spin? rating ? regardless of the size or type of boat. That doesn?t sound like it would be fair to the smaller boats like the 24, 25, or 27, and it might be generous for the larger boats like my own 38 or Charlie Nelson?s 36XL. During the past couple of weeks there was some discussion of how various clubs and local groups calculate a ?non-spin? rating that lets all boats race in one class. I seem to recall one message that indicated 10% or 15% of the normal rating was added for a boat racing non-spin. But I think there were other methods, too. So the question for the wisdom of the list is this: What is a fair way to adjust the normal PHRF rating (which presumes a spinnaker) for a boat that is racing non-spin? Thanks for your input. Rick Brass Washington, NC _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com [email protected] _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com [email protected] ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com [email protected] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com [email protected] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20130228/687b8c21/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 19:38:33 -0500 From: "jtsails" <[email protected]> To: "Dennis C." <[email protected]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF ratings - Spin vs non-spin Message-ID: <F8CC698AAD5A434E8CAFE4381EEF4EBA@JamesLaptop> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Rick, I really like this idea!!!!! JT Delaney C&C 38 MK II Oriental, NC ----- Original Message ----- From: Dennis C. To: [email protected] Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 8:42 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF ratings - Spin vs non-spin We used to have fundraiser regattas where the boats bought seconds. That was always fun. To stimulate giving, sponsors donated stuff. Buy a bottle of Bombay rum, get 21 seconds, etc. We raced Touche' at a PHRF rating of 333 one race. Cost me a ton of $$$ and we didn't win but it raised a bunch of money. As to your original question, it's a fundraiser. Boats should be FUN RACING. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Rick Brass <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 12:41 AM Subject: Stus-List PHRF ratings - Spin vs non-spin I help out with a local charity regatta called Pirates on the Pungo. http://www.piratesonpungo.org We are planning to do a couple of special trophies this year, one of which will go to the C&C sailboat that finishes first in the long pursuit race on the first day of sailing. While we plan to have both spin and non-spin classes for the PHRF boats in the regatta (with sub classes to keep the competition fair for all size boats), we want the special awards to span both spin and non-spin. NCPHRF, unlike some other regional PHRF groups, does not grant different spin and non-spin ratings. And the PHRF base ratings that we use for a lot of the casual sailors presume a spinnaker. So we?re thinking about creating an adjusted ?NON-SPIN? rating for the boats in the special trophy groups that will let them compete relatively fairly with the spin boats in the same special group. I?ve been told that one of the clubs in Oriental, NC adds an arbitrary 11 seconds to the NCPHRF spin rating to get a ?non-spin? rating ? regardless of the size or type of boat. That doesn?t sound like it would be fair to the smaller boats like the 24, 25, or 27, and it might be generous for the larger boats like my own 38 or Charlie Nelson?s 36XL. During the past couple of weeks there was some discussion of how various clubs and local groups calculate a ?non-spin? rating that lets all boats race in one class. I seem to recall one message that indicated 10% or 15% of the normal rating was added for a boat racing non-spin. But I think there were other methods, too. So the question for the wisdom of the list is this: What is a fair way to adjust the normal PHRF rating (which presumes a spinnaker) for a boat that is racing non-spin? Thanks for your input. Rick Brass Washington, NC _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com [email protected] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com [email protected] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20130228/82b0676d/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 20:13:14 -0500 From: Paul Fountain <[email protected]> To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Stus-List forward hatch 29-2 Message-ID: <[email protected]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" As said either aitkens & Hoyle or bomark .... Look at Lewmar for a replacement if A & H don't have one... Measure the inside dimensions from below and check their catalogue. When I replaced ours the Lewmars actually fit better than the bomarks I removed . Paul. :) On 2013-02-28, at 5:32 PM, Mike Cain <[email protected]> wrote: > Hi Listers, > > Does anyone have the name, rank for a replacement forward hatch on a 29 MK2 > circa '84? > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected] > ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 18:57:15 -0800 From: Jim Watts <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Stus-List forward hatch 29-2 Message-ID: <ca+jz0fewhfpzyq99dojhhhmpv7azv2mnhslvnbbuhfh9t2t...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Our 29-2 had a Nibo forward hatch. I think a Lewmar 60 is a drop-in replacement, same as it was on our 35. On 28 February 2013 17:13, Paul Fountain <[email protected]> wrote: > As said either aitkens & Hoyle or bomark .... Look at Lewmar for a > replacement if A & H don't have one... Measure the inside dimensions from > below and check their catalogue. When I replaced ours the Lewmars actually > fit better than the bomarks I removed . > > Paul. :) > > > On 2013-02-28, at 5:32 PM, Mike Cain <[email protected]> wrote: > > > Hi Listers, > > > > Does anyone have the name, rank for a replacement forward hatch on a 29 > MK2 circa '84? > > _______________________________________________ > > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > > [email protected] > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected] > -- Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20130228/259956ac/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 22:33:17 -0500 From: David Knecht <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Stus-List tips Message-ID: <[email protected]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Since the advice has been so helpful, I am going to move to the next step. Perhaps this is becoming a group buying decision! The broker sent me the survey they had done before taking the boat in trade in September. Turns out the surveyor is one of 3 that I contacted about surveying for me and had not heard back from yet. I am not sure how this affects my doing a survey, but he did not do a thermal imaging scan as was recommended by Joanna and David and I will likely hire one who does, as it seems a worthwhile investment with the cored hull. There were a few things in the survey of note: **1. There is elevated moisture present in the starboard side deck starting from the spreacher (??) blocks and running forward for 15?. The deck was thoroughly sounded and found to be solid. No repairs are necessary at this time, however the area should be monitored annually with repairs undertaken if conditions change. **2. Both sides of the rudder have voids present between the outer skin and the core material of the rudder. The areas measure about one foot in width and about three feet in length. It is recommended to have the rudder repaired in the off season after it is thoroughly dried. 3. The engine would not achieve a wide open throttle when the transmission was put into reverse on several occasions. An inspection of the max propeller was undertaken with no issues noted in its operation. It is recommended to contact the propeller and transmission manufacture to find out if what if anything is out of order. The second does not surprise me as I had a similar issue with my previous C&C 34 and would request that to be fixed before purchase. I am not sure what to make of the first and third. Comments? Thanks- Dave David Knecht, Ph.D. Professor and Head of Microscopy Facility Department of Molecular and Cell Biology U-3125 91 N. Eagleville Rd. University of Connecticut Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 860-486-4331 (fax) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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