Oh, gosh, now we start a discussion. Answer really depends on elevations and
exact configuration. Don Casey sums it up here:
http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/installing-head.asp
My opinion:
Loop on discharge from head before Y-valve or holding tank if no Y-valve -
required.
Loop in intake BEFORE pump -NOT recommended.
Loop between pump and bowl - optional depending on elevation.
Others may disagree.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
>________________________________
> From: Stevan Plavsa <[email protected]>
>To: [email protected]
>Sent: Wednesday, April 3, 2013 5:06 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Overlooked source of bilge odor
>
>
>How necessary is the loop on the head --> holding tank line? I get that I need
>it on the intake --> head line so as not to sink the boat.
>
>
>Asking because I just ordered a new tank to go with the new head I already
>bolted to the floor. Next is plumbing it all. Intake on holding tank is on top
>so I don't see any chance for siphon action. Am I missing something? I'de
>rather avoid the situation you just described altogether on top of which I
>want the lowest length of hose I can manage from the head to the tank. Less
>water required to clear the hose, hopefully less time between pump outs.
>
>
>Truth be told, I've never even used a marine toilet!
>Now I'm putting together a whole system .. books only take you so far.
>
>
>Steve
>C&C 32
>Toronto
>
>
>
>On Wed, Apr 3, 2013 at 1:12 PM, Dennis C. <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>FYI, for those that have anti-siphon loops in their head inlet and discharge
>hoses. The little duck bill valves in the loop don't last forever. They may
>eventually leak putting gray water or critter laden intake water into your
>bilge.
>>
>>Work the system and check the hole in the top of the valve in the loop. If
>>you see water, replace the valve. They're only about $10-12.
>>
>>Dennis C.
>>Touché 35-1 #83
>>Mandeville, LA
>>
>>
>>Sent from my iPhone
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>>
>
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>
>
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